MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums - View Single Post - Repairing the Rust on the bottom lip of my hatch. Any tips or Suggestions????

DZEE'S LX · 03-13-2002, 12:36 PM

If you check around you can find auto paint stores that will mix up spray paint (usually lacquer) that matches your paint code.
I did this with the area under my grill on my Ranger and it has lasted for years.
It will help if you can mask off the area to a body line, corner, or something like that. If you dont want a masking line you can feather the edge and kind of let the overspray blend into the adjacent surface.
One disadvantage of this spaypaint is that you will not be able to clear coat over the top. I've not been able to find clear in a can. The clearcoat is the final coat that a shop will spray. Then they buff the transistion between old & new clear so you can't even tell it was done - assuming a good color match of the base.

Only use spray paint if you can have it mixed to your paint code, it is good paint, and check it on a test piece first. I would stay away from the more generic stuff.

This method will only just get you by. You will definately see it close up, but the general public may not really even notice from a distance.

Good luck,

Dan

03-13-2002, 12:36 PM	#8
DZEE'S LX Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 117	If you check around you can find auto paint stores that will mix up spray paint (usually lacquer) that matches your paint code. I did this with the area under my grill on my Ranger and it has lasted for years. It will help if you can mask off the area to a body line, corner, or something like that. If you dont want a masking line you can feather the edge and kind of let the overspray blend into the adjacent surface. One disadvantage of this spaypaint is that you will not be able to clear coat over the top. I've not been able to find clear in a can. The clearcoat is the final coat that a shop will spray. Then they buff the transistion between old & new clear so you can't even tell it was done - assuming a good color match of the base. Only use spray paint if you can have it mixed to your paint code, it is good paint, and check it on a test piece first. I would stay away from the more generic stuff. This method will only just get you by. You will definately see it close up, but the general public may not really even notice from a distance. Good luck, Dan __________________ Spec Service (UHP), BFG G-Force KDW's, Turbo Coupe 3.55 rear w/disks, 73mm calipers, Stg 1 Twisted Wedges, TFS Street Intake, 70mm TB, E cam, Crane 1.7's, Aeromotive FPR, BBK 1 5/8 shorties, elec fan, FMS Al Radiator, Moroso Wires, Kenne Bell Ramair, March pulleys, Race Magnums, 190 lph Walbro, FMS Al Dshaft, D/S loop, MM 4point rollbar, FMS C spngs, strut tower brace, Tokico Illuminas, Prothane bushings, MM Lwr Conrol Arms, KB welded subs, Cervini Mach 1 hood/valence/side skirts/wing/airdam.