[RPM427]

The swap itself is a fairly easy thing to do. The biggest issue is cooling as the motor sits tilted somewhat upward and high in the engine compartment making a good electric fan and a racing radiator mandatory.

Also, if you want to keep power brakes, you will either have to keep the stock late model vacuum assist, but you will have to use the stock 460 valve covers (they are quite short). Otherwise, you will need to switch to the Lincoln hydra boost system. This is because the tall valve covers will hit the vacuum booster.

As for the swap itself, it is very easy and requires no cutting. The easiest thing to due is get an engine plate kit and cut out the motor mounts. If you don't you will have header clearance problems. The headers are available anywhere, recomended ones are Hooker Super Comps, but a large number of places make these, just look through the magazine ads. The oil pan can be a specific Canton or Milodon piece or you can use a factory ford truck pan, part number E7TE-667588. I don't recommend the stock pan as it is too small and if you rev the motor past 6000 rpm, you may suck it dry.

Once you have all the swap parts, you will need to modify the dual hump cross member. All that needs to be done is breaking the welds so that you can slide the tranny mount to its most rearward position. Attach small extension hoses (bent down and slightly to the rear) to the transmission (for the tranny oil cooler lines). This makes life easier as once the tranny is in, getting at the lines is not easy. Also the driveshaft will have to be shortened. most likely end up being 42.5" center to center.

It also helps if you cut all the little 'ears' that stick out of the tranny bellhousing (these will catch on everything when trying to put the motor and tranny in). The easiest way I have found is to have the front of the car jacked up a foot or so. Get a buddy (or two) to hold the headers in place in the engine compartment while you lower the motor and tranny (together) into place. You will find that you will have to angle the motor down a lot to get the rear of the tranny into the tunnel (with my hoist, I have to push down on the tranny tail shaft, while somebody pushes the hoist inward). Anyway down and in, down and in and so on until she's in. Make sure your buddies are constantly wiggling the headers so they don't get pinched and squashed. Once its in its mounts, get under the car, jack up the rear of the tranny and put in the crossmember.

I was serously considering doing this project to my 89, but your handling will be horrible due to the extra weight.