Quote:
Originally posted by PKRWUD
A dry kit add's nitrous only to the intake manifold, and allows the injectors to take care of the fuel. A wet kit ads both nitrous and gasoline to the intake. The danger here is that with a wet kit, for the first time, you are making the intake manifold explosive. If, when you use your nitrous, your timing is off a hair, or your valves float, or aren't adjusted properly, or if an intake valve hangs open for any reason, you can blow the intake right off the engine. Usually, it only destroys the throttle body and the mass air, but I've seen hoods get blown off from the damage.
Nitrous oxide by itself is not flammable, so a dry kit is safer, especially for the nitrous rookie. But, a wet kit has a bigger punch.
Take care,
-Chris
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With the old wet setup being plumbed in around the TB I can and have seen how the nitrous can puddle in the upper intake runners. With the new kits designed to bypass the upper intake, it stands to elimanate any puddling, correct? I agree you do have to make the necessary changes with your tune (i.e; timing, colder plugs), but the same could be said about the valves even on a dry kit, right or wrong
? If those changes are made, I can't see how you could go wrong with the new wet systems, unless you try and go to big with the pills?
Most everyone around here that runs nitrous and is some what serious about it runs a carb/nitrous setup anyway. They always runs pretty well and the hit is so much harder and more instantaneous, I just figured the new wet setups for fuel injected cars would have elimanated most of the old issues if properly tuned since they are more like a carb setup now.