hey
UGLYFAST, i am in the same boat as you. i am not much for straight line racing(but i do like it sometimes
). from my experience and anyone who really hugs the curves will tell you this:
1. gear ratio for you that would be best is 3.55's, but 3.73's are an option, but no higher! will you feel the difference? HELL YES! 3.55 is a perfect gear for a 5 speed for SCCA if that is what you like to do. 3.73's are a little steeper, but you will do fine either way.
2. forget about the motor until last. you 5.0 has enough ponies on the track. you would be amazed what a stock 5.0 can do. put your money in your suspension and brakes first. dont be backwards and make your car a go fast but cant stop or take a curve car. that will just make you more frustrated in the end.
3. good suspension setup for now is replace the rear upper control arms with
rubber, not poly's cause it will cause the suspension to bind and that is not what you want(thanks Darius) the lowers use a Griggs setup or Maxium Motorsports one. they can be poly's. get a Panhard kit. make sure you dont piece the suspension setup from different manufactors cause they may actually work against each other. research, and pick one like Griggs. piece that together with Griggs stuff, not Mac, BBK, Maxium Motorsports combined(get the picture?) make sure to ask the company about if your tailpiped will fit when you decide to purchase a panhard kit(that is if you want to keep the pipes)as for shocks, i am running the OEM Ford ones for now. i have no complaints really. you may want to look into Tokiko or Bilstein.
4.
Definetly get sub frame connectors!! the weld in ones! not the bolt in!(junk) you will notice a difference night and day. a cage is not neccesary. but i will really tighten up the car. the side effect on that is weight. you will be a little slower.
5. you could get an aftermarket K-member, but for now just use the stock piece. get lowering springs. i have the motorsports B kit and i am satisfied. remember, too low is a no no. that stuff would be just for looks.
6. brakes. you have many options. want to stay with the four lug? then use SVO 73mm calipers up front and t-Bird or 93 Cobra rear brakes. i personally think the Cobra kit would be the way to go. then you have to spot for the new wheels. there is Baer and i do think they make a 4 and 5 lug kit, but not sure. but i would ditch the drum brakes.
7.wheels are your next bet. if you want to run with the 10 holes that is fine. research for tires you want for that rim. if you want to ditch the 10 holes, you could go 4 lug or 5 lug. 4 lug you can just bolt on. 5 lug you have to convert. get some sticky tires. something you can use for the street and the track. but dont get racing ones, cause they just wont last on the street and you will be wasting your money.
8. i wouldnt tear the motor apart unless you suspect problems. when you do put the new bearings in, this would be the time to hop up your motor a bit. i wouldnt spend alot of money in heads. get the E7's reworked with a "E" cam with 1.7 rockers. or you could go with the GT40P heads, but dont forget the special headers you have to but for them. those are the two options on head choice. get a better fuel pump. 190 should be perfect. you can keep the 19lbs injectors if you want if you go with a mild setup or you can get the 24lbs. get an ajustable fuel regulator and that way you can get a little more out of your 19's. intake would be a Cobra or and Explorer with a 65mm, NO BIGGER! remember the Explorer intake has
external EGR and your stock and Cobra has internal EGR. also, you have to drill out a whole in the lower of the Explorer for the Intake air temp sensor. i dont know if you have emissions where you are but put it in consideration. Speed density should work fine with any of the options i mentioned above. i would convert to mass air. unless you are going to get serious with horsepower, the speed density will work fine. on some occasions you will have idle problems. not all speed density's do this.
hope this helped.