Here's how I do it: Remove return spring and take lower link off. Remove upper push rod from z-bar. Okay now z-bar is free. Examine how it works. The upper arm should run straight and true when the z-bar is rotated. It should run in the same direction as the steering column and should not wander right/left as its moved. If it moves right/left then the frame pivot needs adjustment. Loosen the two bolts on the frame pivot, slide the pivot fore/aft, right/left the end result is the upper arm of the z-bar should run straight and true.
Check the clutch pedal and ensure it is on the upper stop. Attach the push rod to the z-bar and set both the stop nuts far apart - one high on the pushrod and the other low so the z-bar is still very free to rotate on its own. Go beneath the car and install the lower link piece and insert it into the fork. The fork should be fully backed off the throwout bearing meaning pulled as far forward as naturally possible. Now check the position of the z-bar upper link on the pushrod. Move the upper nut down to where it just touches the z-bar link but does not move it. Go to the bottom and see if the lower link is held in the fork without the spring being attached. It should just rest in the fork and not fall out when the upper pushrod nut is adjusted down towards the z-bar link. Wiggle it and see how it fits in the fork. It should fit loosely with about 1/16" play but not fall out or hold the fork rigid. Once you have this condition reached, go back up top and adjust the lower nut until it locks the z-bar link. Recheck the bottom link and make sure it still feels like before (1/16" play and not falling out). Repeat adjustment until you get it right. The fork should not be bound on the back of the bell housing/tranny neck nor bind the throwout bearing against the pressure plate tines. There is a spot in the center of these two extremes where the fork floats in between - this is where you want the throwout bearing to be with the clutch pedal fully up and the z-bar nuts tightened. Everything should hang together at this point with no springs attached and no pedal pressure applied. When you achieve this point reattach the lower spring. Your clutch is adjusted so check it out and make sure it operates as it should. Repeat this adjustment at 90 days and at 1 year intervals. If it does not work at this point something is wrong. Most likely its a bent clutch disk from improperly inserting the tranny (putting side pressure on it while installing and not using guide pins). If you have this problem, the clutch plate will drag and the result will be grinding gears when shifting. Another cause of being unable to get good clutch adjustment is using a cheap rebuilt clutch set improperly reconditioned. Another cause is not resurfacing flywheel. The cause is not related to the 10.5 vs 10" issue. There's no difference in the clutches except the added diameter. They work exactly the same with exactly the same operating clearances.
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