[jim_howard_pdx]

This is an easy one.....

First, remove the coil spring with a spring compressor tool. Use a proper tool since this spring can kill you if it were to suddenly release under pressure. A good spring compressor costs about 50 dollars or you can rent one for 20 dollars. I like the type that compress from the outside. Then you can use it for struts as well.

Second remove the nuts from the bottom side of the coil spring saddle mount and use a drift punch to push the threads up through the control arm. The upper bolt is actually pressed into the saddle, just like a wheel stud. So if you try to twist it, you will simply break off the bolt head! Only loosen the lower nuts, do not touch the top bolt heads. Use a hammer and drift pin and gently tap the saddle bolts up through the control arm. When they release, you shock will be free.

You can now mount it on a vice and saw or cut the nut. This whole procedure can be accomplished in less than 30 minutes. The Mustang front end is that easy to work on.

At this time you should replace the spring saddle mount with a new unit. I usually press out the shock bar and use a polyurethane bushing. If you do this, you need to wrap the poly bushing with 3 to 4 layers of teflon tape and press it in with a good clean surface and some grease so the teflon does not get pushed away. This prevents squeeks that are common on polyurethane bushings. I do this on my sway bar mounts as well.

I bet all the rubber will be shot on the old coil spring saddle.

I would consider changing front springs. Use the 620 coils if you want to drop the front end a bit. You will corner much flatter, and your car will handle more like a new car. You can also try the Eibach progressive springs. I am using their 460-640 rate springs. You get the stock cushy ride when on the highway, and it corners just as flat as my old 620 springs.

Carroll Shelby spent some time on Ford's computer to analyze how to get a Mustang to corner. He found that by drilling a hole exactly one inch under the stock upper A arm holes he could get much more neutral camber under cornering loads. You simply drill the hole down one inch and move the hole 1/8 inch closer to the back of the car. This improves the caster angle which gives you high speed steering stability A GOOD THING ON ANY MUSTANG. You do not need to go back 1/8 inch for 69 and newer Mustangs since the factory improved the caster angle in the 69 model year.

You should DEFINITELY change the spring perch mount and coil springs at this time. Stock springs are flat out dangerous. High speed wobbling is common, and the positive camber changes when you corner drastically reduce tire contact. If you are on wet or sandy ground, fast maneuvers can bite you bad with the stock configuration.

Hope this helps.

By the way, using a monte carlo bar and export brace are absolutely essential to maintaining proper alignment on your Mustang. The shock towers actually bend in about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch which makes your tires wear really funky. When you are driving under load these shock towers are constantly flexing in and out. Imagine what the tires do as these shock towers flex?

Use the monte carlo bar and the export brace along with the shelby one inch drop. Your car will now handle ver similar to the current vehicles on the road. You will be glad you did these very simple modifications. The first time you need to make a fast move to avoid an accident, you will know that the modifications are a life saver. Only someone looking for the Shelby drop will notice the extra holes where the factory A arm holes were drilled.