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Old 10-14-2002, 01:59 PM   #17
jim_howard_pdx
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 247
Cool

Read that message before mine very carefully. Seems like good advice.

My son and I stripped off three coats of paint and sanded the metal to rough, about 400 weight wet dry. We sealed the metal with Duponts self etching, hardened primer, then shot on about 4-5 light coats of hardened enamel primer similiar in color to the basecoat. Then our shop shot an epoxy sealer, and the base coat. The new paint is using a polyester base coat that shoots on wet and drys to a dull finish. The polyester is thick stuff, and that is why new paint looks lumpy. I had them use one ounce of hardener to every sprayable quart of base coat. Then I had the shop shoot on a show quality, high solids clear coat. Had them shoot it thick. Then sanded out the orange peel and polished it to a fine shine. (This is called cut and buff). The paint I used is Chrysler Platinum, and it is way better than that pepper gray they used in the movie car. Check it out at a auto paint store. This type of build up should be good for 10 years. The cut and buff gives you a show car paint look.

Send me your email address to jim_howard_pdx@yahoo.com and I will forward a better picture of my Mustang. It is a great looking car, and gets very little attention from the Police. ALWAYS A GOOD THING. By the way, my flares and customization have been on this car since 1980. So my car is an original Eleanor prototype--OR SO I WISH!

Good luck with your project. Let me know how it works out.
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1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP
C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi
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