[jim_howard_pdx]

The hypereutectic pistons are going to be really "iffy" when you get past about a 100- 125 HP NOS squirt. By the way, a 150 NOS system typically delivers about 105-109 HP at the rear wheels.

The stock rings are also not up to the task. The stock rod bolts are not up to the task. The rod bearings have how many miles on them?????

I like to run dual 1/2 inch fuel lines on my NOS engines. It sounds like overkill, but everytime you bend a 3/8 inch line, you reduce its ability to provide volume over time. 1/2 inch fuel line just gives you that much better opportunity to keep eveything happy when the hammer is down.

Remember that the 140 GPH rating of the fuel pump is with optimum inlet and optimum outlet into NO PRESSURE. This does not exist on a street car.

I like to plumb the fuel pickup with two 3/8 inch pickups and run these into two 75-110 gph fuel pumps with 1/2 inch lines to the engine. I like to run separate lines to the primary and secondary sides of my Carbs on NOS engines. That way you know you will keep the bowls full.

I like the idea of running a fuel pressure cut-off, to kill the NOS system if the pressure drops, but it has never happened on any of my cars running dual fuel lines. I keep seat pressure at 5.5 lbs.

Since you are running hypereutectics and alot of stock stuff, you should consider using an MSD ignition box with the retard function. This means that when the NOS kicks in, your MSD will retard the spark by about 6 to 8 degrees to avoid detonation.

That is how we get 500+ horsepower out of a 1.7 liter dual turbo Maxda rotary engine. And yes it will spank your 5.0 with very low 9 second passes, one after the other. The MSD retard works so well, that after an entire season of racing, the piston tops and rings look like there is NO NOS and NO TURBO. Quite a feat for a 500 HP engine making over a hundred passes per season.

On your 5.0, when you do a bottom end rebuild, use the plasma moly top ring, not the single moly top ring. Use about 8.5 to 1 compression (FORGED) and have the pistons and the combustion chambers coated. You can do this yourself but the smell is incredible. There are some shops in Calif that will coat the parts for you at a great price.

Please go with a super lightweight piston and the longest light weight rod you can squeeze in. Have a shop turn down your crank journals to small block chevy size rod bearings. This will reduce the speed of the rod bearing and will eliminate unnecessary heat and possible spun bearings.

They can offset grind the journals at the same time to give you a 331 displacement. I absolutely love this engine. Lots of torque with the long rods. Perfect for superchargers and HEAVY NOS.

The heads you have are fine, but past 200 HP on the NOS shot you have a good chance of blowing the head gasket. I would consider grooving the head like Trick Flow does, and use the cool Felpro wire lock head gaskets. We have used these in NOS engines for about 4 years now and have only lost one head gasket in all that time. We replaced the head gasket and went right back on the track. TOTALLY COOL!

Hope this helps.

FOGGER SYSTEM PLATE SYSTEM
NOS CHEATER WOULD BE MY PURCHASE.
MSD retard box,
Water injection,
Dual 1/2 fuel lines with dual 3/8 fuel inlets from the fuel tank
Run pressure regulators at 5.5 to 6.5.
USE A NOS TANK WARMER.

You should now be good for the time being. With super lightweight pistons and rods we got a 5.0 to 9.13 on the quarter mile with a 350 squirt. Ran just fine. That took two NOS bottles and a progressive set up so we would not mash the rod bearings into copper dust.