IF you search the archives there are detailed posts on this. this one is from chris... the resident expert...
Stud mount?
1) Install all 16, and snug down the nuts by hand.
2) Rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke.
3) Check the rotor in the distributor, and verify that it is pointing at the #1 wire on the cap. If it's not, rotate the engine 360 degrees.
4) To find the point of zero lash, spin the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger while slowly tightening the nut with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Tighten the following rockers until you feel the first bit of drag on the spinning pushrod:
Cylinder #1 intake and exhaust,
Cylinder #3 exhaust,
Cylinder #4 intake,
Cylinder #7 exhaust,
Cylinder #8 intake.
5) Now tighten each of those 3/4 of a turn, and lock them.
6) Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so the balancer reads TDC again.
7) With a 1/4" ratchet, tighten these rockers (again, to zero lash):
Cylinder #3 intake,
Cylinder #2 exhaust,
Cylinder #7 intake,
Cylinder #6 exhaust.
8) Now tighten each of those 3/4 of a turn, and lock them.
9) Rotate the engine 90 degrees, and with the ratchet, tighten to zero lash on these rockers:
Cylinder #2 intake
Cylinder #4 exhaust
Cylinder #5 intake and exhaust
Cylinder #6 intake
Cylinder #8 exhaust
10) Now tighten each of those 3/4 of a turn, and lock them.
these instructions were for stud mount, so w/ pedestal mount substitute "slowly torque to 20 pounds" everywhere I wrote "tighten them down 3/4 of a turn".
BTW, if it takes more than one full turn to reach 20 pounds after zero lash, you will need to install shims.
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'89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression.
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