I am the guy "pushing" crank scrapers to the racers.
Look, if you are not running in the 10's, then a windage tray, a girdle, a canton oil pan and high volume pump are all you will ever need.
When you try to go from 10 to 9 second quarters, the oil mist actually slows down the crank. It is like trying to run through a downpour. The rain slows you down and makes you work harder. Same thing applies to your crank. It is bombarded by oil dripping down on it, oil mist hanging in the pan, and oil that is splashed by the rods.
When you go from 9 to 8 seconds, the oil actually ropes around the crankshaft, like twine around a bobbin. As the crank has MASS it moves at a different speed than the oil, and as a result it begins to twist trying to carry the extra weight that is on its back. What is worse, is that the oil is also creating imbalance in the engine's rotational energy, so harmonics build that can literally shatter the block and break the crank.
Nearly all high rpm race cars utilize a dry sump oil system so that oil is sucked out of the crank case under vacume to eliminate even the mist. These engines develop a minimum of 25 more horsepower at 7,500 rpm just from the elimination of the oil roping the crank.
So if you are driving a nice street car, you really do not need a scrapper. If you are running high rpm's, you probably only need a windage tray unless you sustain that over a period of time.
Crank scrappers are a racer's best way to keep the crank unloaded. This allows it to maintain correct balance, and eliminates the flex that is created by roping.
I hope this helps.
For those running in the 8's and faster, it is common to see them put 10,000 dollars or more into their engine and driveline and wonder why they cannot win the trophies. The guys who win are controling the oil in their engines.
It is the most overlooked piece in the puzzle until they are staring at a broken crank or a cracked block.
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1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP
C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi
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