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Chevyguy · 02-03-2003, 05:37 PM

The Stock 5.0 balancer has a TDC mark and the degree marks on it, the pointer is just a TDC mark. You need to mark the TDC on the balancer and clean off the degree marks. I used white chalk to highlight the markings on my car. Also I have a Sunpro timing light with the dial back knob so I just use the knob to line up the two TDC marks and this gets me the timing reading on the knob, as I still had a hard time reading the degree marks on the black balancer.

And yes this is an external balance crank, there is a 50 oz counterweight on the balancer. This was done to reduce weight of the crankshaft. The original 302 was internal balance. I am fuzzy here but there is a 28 oz balancer too, those may have been early 80's 302's then went to 50 oz for the HO motors.

You can get a timing READING with the spout connector in. It will be about 22° or so at idle. When you pull the spout connector it drops down to the base timing. (dont try to pull it out while running, you will probably feed your hand to the fan or belt) Stock is 10° and this allows you to run 87 octane with pretty good power and no pinging with just about any weasel piss gas you end up getting out there.

I only bring the timing up when I am going to the track, I used 15° last time and can maybe go higher. I drove for 2-3 weeks with no pinging etc.. Was a bit snappier on the low end, but not worth the extra$$ for gas on the street.

Also you want all your vac lines properly attached at all times. The older manuals cover from 79-88 and cover 3 or more different engine control systems and can be a bear to decyper which car they are talking about. Chiltons has a 89-93 manual that only covers Mass air cars and is easier to work with, I have this one.

I worked on Chevys for years too, as long as you have the proper info, it's not too hard to figure out the EEC-IV system.

Once you get the timing set, you can try to figure out if any additional vac lines are broken or missing. Plus a rundown of any previous mods is helpfull. My car was super bone stock which helped me quite a bit, cus only I have changed anything. But you could find mis matched injectors and MAF, all sorts of disconnected Smog equipment, jacked up fuel pressure etc......
Take your time and tackle one thing at a time, it should eventually purr like a kitten.

Oh yeah, most obvious thing, throw a brand new set of Motorcraft plugs in there. GOK how bad the ones in there are.

02-03-2003, 05:37 PM	#12
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	The Stock 5.0 balancer has a TDC mark and the degree marks on it, the pointer is just a TDC mark. You need to mark the TDC on the balancer and clean off the degree marks. I used white chalk to highlight the markings on my car. Also I have a Sunpro timing light with the dial back knob so I just use the knob to line up the two TDC marks and this gets me the timing reading on the knob, as I still had a hard time reading the degree marks on the black balancer. And yes this is an external balance crank, there is a 50 oz counterweight on the balancer. This was done to reduce weight of the crankshaft. The original 302 was internal balance. I am fuzzy here but there is a 28 oz balancer too, those may have been early 80's 302's then went to 50 oz for the HO motors. You can get a timing READING with the spout connector in. It will be about 22° or so at idle. When you pull the spout connector it drops down to the base timing. (dont try to pull it out while running, you will probably feed your hand to the fan or belt) Stock is 10° and this allows you to run 87 octane with pretty good power and no pinging with just about any weasel piss gas you end up getting out there. I only bring the timing up when I am going to the track, I used 15° last time and can maybe go higher. I drove for 2-3 weeks with no pinging etc.. Was a bit snappier on the low end, but not worth the extra$$ for gas on the street. Also you want all your vac lines properly attached at all times. The older manuals cover from 79-88 and cover 3 or more different engine control systems and can be a bear to decyper which car they are talking about. Chiltons has a 89-93 manual that only covers Mass air cars and is easier to work with, I have this one. I worked on Chevys for years too, as long as you have the proper info, it's not too hard to figure out the EEC-IV system. Once you get the timing set, you can try to figure out if any additional vac lines are broken or missing. Plus a rundown of any previous mods is helpfull. My car was super bone stock which helped me quite a bit, cus only I have changed anything. But you could find mis matched injectors and MAF, all sorts of disconnected Smog equipment, jacked up fuel pressure etc...... Take your time and tackle one thing at a time, it should eventually purr like a kitten. Oh yeah, most obvious thing, throw a brand new set of Motorcraft plugs in there. GOK how bad the ones in there are. __________________ 2001 Crown Vic Maurader Airbox/MAF, DR chip Edel IAS shocks Single exhaust :wtf: 93 P-71 Vic interceptor Backup car now 90 5.0 LX Notch SOLD 74 Chevy Laguna type S-3 454 under construction Currently apart undergoing bodywork.