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crazypete · 02-12-2003, 04:15 PM

I'm using the same rubber hose that came with the holley carb to join the fuel inlets together (comes with 2 long pieces), the braided style "stiff" rubber hose. I cant see holley shipping something in the same box as their carbs thats going to wreck the needles. I order an 85' mustang distributor from some guy in texas and he sent me a 79' distributor instead...shred shred shred, weeeee watch me scrape metal chunks from my oil pan weee. I got an "85" distributor from napa for $50 and I made sure to ask them twenty times if it had a steel gear. They said yes, I installed it.....shred shred shred. Nope. weeee, scraping filings from my oilpan again. I finally bought the fms steel gear myself and pounded it down with a deep socket. Just warning you... when they say it's a steel gear, you'd better check to make sure!

With the electric FP, I found this phenomenon: When you flick the car to "on" and the fuelpump starts running, the pressure will creep up and overflow the bowls if you cant start the car soon enough (It's really cool, though. The motor "coughs up" gas and spits it all over the garage). I had 2 regulators over the time: the holley $20 one (useless) and the mallory $75 multiport adjustable unit with return line. Neither could keep the fp under control. With the engine running, fuel pressure seemed ok, a bit high (8 psi with the adjustable all the way up) though.

Honestly, if you're going carb, you want to do away with electrical relays and and wiring and reduce the complexity of your car. Why else would someone go through all this trouble? I think having electrical fuel systems defeats this purpose.

I feel a fuel pump "holy war" brewing here =P

02-12-2003, 04:15 PM	#8
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	I'm using the same rubber hose that came with the holley carb to join the fuel inlets together (comes with 2 long pieces), the braided style "stiff" rubber hose. I cant see holley shipping something in the same box as their carbs thats going to wreck the needles. I order an 85' mustang distributor from some guy in texas and he sent me a 79' distributor instead...shred shred shred, weeeee watch me scrape metal chunks from my oil pan weee. I got an "85" distributor from napa for $50 and I made sure to ask them twenty times if it had a steel gear. They said yes, I installed it.....shred shred shred. Nope. weeee, scraping filings from my oilpan again. I finally bought the fms steel gear myself and pounded it down with a deep socket. Just warning you... when they say it's a steel gear, you'd better check to make sure! With the electric FP, I found this phenomenon: When you flick the car to "on" and the fuelpump starts running, the pressure will creep up and overflow the bowls if you cant start the car soon enough (It's really cool, though. The motor "coughs up" gas and spits it all over the garage). I had 2 regulators over the time: the holley $20 one (useless) and the mallory $75 multiport adjustable unit with return line. Neither could keep the fp under control. With the engine running, fuel pressure seemed ok, a bit high (8 psi with the adjustable all the way up) though. Honestly, if you're going carb, you want to do away with electrical relays and and wiring and reduce the complexity of your car. Why else would someone go through all this trouble? I think having electrical fuel systems defeats this purpose. I feel a fuel pump "holy war" brewing here =P __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior