NO! Do NOT remove the little black plastic thingy on top of it. That's the seal for the "guts" of the sensor, so that's a big negative.
You merely adjust the idle stop screw with a (short) flat blade screwdriver until the TPS voltage is satisfactory. Don't worry about the position of the throttle blade, the computer will take care of idle speed fine. You shouldn't need to rout out the TPS to adjust it like I did unless you're doing something dumb like I am (long story!).
If you temporarily bump the voltage past 1.0V, you will immediately notice a surge in power from the engine. This is the crossover point so the computer "knows" when to get the message, "okay, time to drive!" Just an FYI and something interesting if you're curious.
This article explains it. Here's my non-relevant rant on the article: Some of it is a bit of an overkill, like letting the computer KAM die for 20+ minutes
and having to let the car "learn" idle speed under full electrical load and whatnot. I say that's just being impatient. Fuel injection is not so unpredictable. Just set it, forget it, and drive. Unless you actually get something to reprogram the EEC computer, you're fighting hard-wired programming that wants to idle at 650-750 RPM with a TPS voltage of <0.95V @ closed throttle position.