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Old 07-07-2003, 01:20 PM   #2
QuantumMotorsports
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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If you're talking about rear upper and lower control arms, it's not tough. If you have a big ratchet handle to break stuff loose, it's no biggie. Jack the car up (pretty high), and set some jack stands just forward of the lower control arm mounts on the frame of the car. Then, You have to unbolt the sway bar first. Then I would suggest putting a jack under the differential and supporting it, then unbolt the shocks from the rear end. Lower the rear end until the tires sit on the ground. Then put a jack under one of the lower control arms near the spring perch and support the weight, then unbolt the rear control arm bolt from the rear end and lower the control arm SLOWLY and let the spring decompress all the way. Do the other side, then once the springs are out, it's cake, just unbolt all of the control arm bolts and put the new control arms in (maybe do one at a time so the rear end stays put). You might not even have to unbolt the shocks, but I would. Be really careful with the springs. To put them back in you will probably be able to just put the front bolt in the control arm and set the spring on the perch and line up the top and jack it back up into place. Good luck man.
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Michael Black
QuantumMotorsports
Norman, OK

1984 LX Hatch
306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat.
Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites
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