You can use the stock control arms. The QA1 k member comes with the stock spring type perches. And if yours doesn't, I'll hook you up with an extra set I have. Anyway, I will have to warn you, if you use the stock A arm setup with the QA1 k member, you cannot be afraid of using a grinder! I know it sounds crappy, but it's a cheap K member so you have to expect to modifiy some things. The thing is built sturdy enough, but the design is made for a coil over setup and they just decided to make the spring perches to go with it. Here's what you have to do to make it work:
1) Grind part of the head off of two of the main A arm bolts to allow clearance between it and a weld on the K member. No big deal, I've done it on two cars and they both are fine. The bolt strength is not hurt, it's a phat bolt and you don't have to take that much material off.
2) Grind material off of the part of the A arm near the front bushing toward the K member. Since the K member is made for the coil over setup with a lot smaller bushings, the larger diameter bushings make part of the A arm rub the K member. You have to take a good 1/8 to 1/4 inch off, but there is a lot of material there. Once again, no big deal, done it a few times.
If you want pictures of exactly what I'm talking about, I've got a car with a K member in it and no motor right now, I could take pics. Let me know.
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Michael Black
QuantumMotorsports
Norman, OK
1984 LX Hatch
306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat.
Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites
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