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Old 09-17-2003, 12:21 AM   #2
QuantumMotorsports
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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First, make sure there is a big *** (6 gauge or larger) clean wire going to the battery from the main screw terminal on the alternator. Then, there are three pins on the plastic connector that connects to the alternator. The alternator is labelled on the connector "A S I" The pin marked S goes to the single pin connector on the side of the alternator (this is the Stator) . The one marked A is a reference voltage for the regulator and needs to go through a 12 to 16 gauge wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The one marked I is probably where your problem lies. It needs to go through either a light bulb (like the indicator light in the dash) or a 60-100 ohm (5 watt or so) resistor to a switch that is +12V when the ignition is in the run position. This is what makes the alternator begin chargin. It is a combination of the reference voltage being correct and the light bulb/resistor being intact that makes the alternator work. Some vehicles have a light bulb and resister in parallel, but you don't need this. You may just have a light bulb out in the dash (i donno how much dash you have still though) If you still need help, let me know.
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Michael Black
QuantumMotorsports
Norman, OK

1984 LX Hatch
306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat.
Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites
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