MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums - View Single Post - How hot can aluminum heads get before they warp?

PKRWUD · 08-08-2001, 08:23 AM

What about the cap? I'm surprised you had trouble with a Ford T-stat. The OEM replacement is a 192 degree t-stat. Did you specify a 180? Anyway, what did your cap test at? I just finished a replacing a turbo and a head on a Volvo because the lady that drove it didn't believe the cap could cause it to overheat. Instead of spending $6, she just paid me $3800.

If you really want to make this simple, you can. Pressure test the cap to 15 psi, put in a verified 180 t-stat, the stock pullies, a mechanical fan WITHOUT ANY CLUTCH, and a shroud that is no further away from the fan blades than a half inch. It is also important that the fan is spaced away from the engine exactly to the point where, when installed with the shroud, half of the blade is inside the shroud, and half is out. The fan is useless without a properly fitted shroud. The shroud's not there to protect your fingers, it's there to create a seal around the fan creating a vacuum that sucks cool air through your radiator. If you do those 5 simple things, you will either solve your problem, or make certian that the problem lies in the engine. If you would rather do part now, and part later, you're going to be chasing your tail, again.

Pressure test the cap at 15 psi.

Install a t-stat that is verified to open at 180 degrees.

Don't install the fan until you have the shroud, and measure and install them together so that the fan sits half in and half out of the shroud. And when you do install the fan and shroud, don't use a clutch.

Make sure you're mixture isn't more than 10% coolant in the radiator, and that the cap is on tight from the minute you start it. I couldn't tell from your other posts if you had been doing that or not, but do it this time.

If it overheats after that, you've got a problem with the engine.

As far as harming your engine goes, you should be fine, but make sure you retorque your head/intake/exhaust bolts before you start driving it.

Take care
~Chris

Hey rbatson!!
How are ya? I've been doing okay. I'm crewing for a different Sprint car team this year, and we're in first place! Check out my web site (link below). It pretty much tells the story. When you get there, check out the links on top. Especially, (you'll love this!) the "Ouch!!!" page. Click on that link, and scroll about halfway down. There you will see several pictures of what happens when a 650 horsepower small block "throws a couple rods". Great pictures! Make sure you click on them so you can see the big pictures, and all the detail! Send me an email after your done!

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

08-08-2001, 08:23 AM	#45
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	What about the cap? I'm surprised you had trouble with a Ford T-stat. The OEM replacement is a 192 degree t-stat. Did you specify a 180? Anyway, what did your cap test at? I just finished a replacing a turbo and a head on a Volvo because the lady that drove it didn't believe the cap could cause it to overheat. Instead of spending $6, she just paid me $3800. If you really want to make this simple, you can. Pressure test the cap to 15 psi, put in a verified 180 t-stat, the stock pullies, a mechanical fan WITHOUT ANY CLUTCH, and a shroud that is no further away from the fan blades than a half inch. It is also important that the fan is spaced away from the engine exactly to the point where, when installed with the shroud, half of the blade is inside the shroud, and half is out. The fan is useless without a properly fitted shroud. The shroud's not there to protect your fingers, it's there to create a seal around the fan creating a vacuum that sucks cool air through your radiator. If you do those 5 simple things, you will either solve your problem, or make certian that the problem lies in the engine. If you would rather do part now, and part later, you're going to be chasing your tail, again. Pressure test the cap at 15 psi. Install a t-stat that is verified to open at 180 degrees. Don't install the fan until you have the shroud, and measure and install them together so that the fan sits half in and half out of the shroud. And when you do install the fan and shroud, don't use a clutch. Make sure you're mixture isn't more than 10% coolant in the radiator, and that the cap is on tight from the minute you start it. I couldn't tell from your other posts if you had been doing that or not, but do it this time. If it overheats after that, you've got a problem with the engine. As far as harming your engine goes, you should be fine, but make sure you retorque your head/intake/exhaust bolts before you start driving it. Take care ~Chris Hey rbatson!! How are ya? I've been doing okay. I'm crewing for a different Sprint car team this year, and we're in first place! Check out my web site (link below). It pretty much tells the story. When you get there, check out the links on top. Especially, (you'll love this!) the "Ouch!!!" page. Click on that link, and scroll about halfway down. There you will see several pictures of what happens when a 650 horsepower small block "throws a couple rods". Great pictures! Make sure you click on them so you can see the big pictures, and all the detail! Send me an email after your done! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!