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PKRWUD · 08-08-2001, 10:48 AM

Hey, i'm just trying to help you.

When you pressure tested the cooling system, it should have been with what looked like a bicycle pump with a hose going to a cap that screwed onto the radiator in place of the radiator cap. By pumping the pump, you apply pressure to the system. Well, the kit that the pump came in also has an attachment that is really just two radiator water necks welded together. You attach the pump to one end, and the cap to the other, and pump it up to the desired pressure, and verify that it holds. You will need to grab your cap and go see the guy who tested your cooling system for you, and ask him to check the cap. It will only take a second, but is very important.

"No, I didn't specify 180, so naturally the Stant would open first. The funny thing is that these thermo's don't open until the water boils which is 212 degrees. What good is that doing my engine?"

When the cap is in place, and the system is sealed, the boiling point rises. With the cap off, or on but not holding pressure, the boiling point lowers.

Please clarify for me if I understood you correctly when you said that you didn't have any problems the time you ran it while the pressure tester was installed.

And yes, you need to have the car on either on level ground, or with the front higher. You always want the radiator cap to be higher than any other part of the cooling system, otherwise you will have air pockets. If you can get to eye level with the cap, and look towards the engine, see if any part of the engine is higher that the cap. If it is, you had air the the system.

The fan clutch you have will probably be fine, but I want you to skip it at first. Otherwise you'll be wondering if the clutch was any good. I'm trying to eliminate as many variables as possible. Keep it simple. The placement of the fan in relation to the shroud is critical, and it would be wise to do them both at the same time. If you have the Shaw t-stat, go test it. Make sure you raise the heat slowly, though.

I really believe that your problems are due to several little things, and if I'm wrong, at least you will have eliminated them all.

Okay, here you go:

Have the cap checked. It must hold pressure at 15 psi.

test and install a 180 t-stat.

Install the fan and shroud like I described before.

Park your car on level ground, and fill it up with water only. If there is some coolant already in the system, leave it, but top it off with only water. cap it and start it.

I can't always get to the sight, but I want to help you with this. You can email me at pkrwuds@pacbell.net if you have any other questions, and even if you don't, keep me posted!

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

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08-08-2001, 10:48 AM	#48
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Hey, i'm just trying to help you. When you pressure tested the cooling system, it should have been with what looked like a bicycle pump with a hose going to a cap that screwed onto the radiator in place of the radiator cap. By pumping the pump, you apply pressure to the system. Well, the kit that the pump came in also has an attachment that is really just two radiator water necks welded together. You attach the pump to one end, and the cap to the other, and pump it up to the desired pressure, and verify that it holds. You will need to grab your cap and go see the guy who tested your cooling system for you, and ask him to check the cap. It will only take a second, but is very important. "No, I didn't specify 180, so naturally the Stant would open first. The funny thing is that these thermo's don't open until the water boils which is 212 degrees. What good is that doing my engine?" When the cap is in place, and the system is sealed, the boiling point rises. With the cap off, or on but not holding pressure, the boiling point lowers. Please clarify for me if I understood you correctly when you said that you didn't have any problems the time you ran it while the pressure tester was installed. And yes, you need to have the car on either on level ground, or with the front higher. You always want the radiator cap to be higher than any other part of the cooling system, otherwise you will have air pockets. If you can get to eye level with the cap, and look towards the engine, see if any part of the engine is higher that the cap. If it is, you had air the the system. The fan clutch you have will probably be fine, but I want you to skip it at first. Otherwise you'll be wondering if the clutch was any good. I'm trying to eliminate as many variables as possible. Keep it simple. The placement of the fan in relation to the shroud is critical, and it would be wise to do them both at the same time. If you have the Shaw t-stat, go test it. Make sure you raise the heat slowly, though. I really believe that your problems are due to several little things, and if I'm wrong, at least you will have eliminated them all. Okay, here you go: Have the cap checked. It must hold pressure at 15 psi. test and install a 180 t-stat. Install the fan and shroud like I described before. Park your car on level ground, and fill it up with water only. If there is some coolant already in the system, leave it, but top it off with only water. cap it and start it. I can't always get to the sight, but I want to help you with this. You can email me at pkrwuds@pacbell.net if you have any other questions, and even if you don't, keep me posted! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!