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DZEE'S LX · 01-23-2001, 01:18 AM

You guys are on the right track.

Assuming that your clutch is installed correctly, adjustment is the key.
A Haynes manual will explain this, but Ford did attempt to design an adjustment feature into the Stang clutch cable. The problem is that it doesn't work very well.
You are supposed to pull up on the pedal with at least 10 or more pounds of pressure. This is when you should hear the click that you are not hearing. If it were working the cogs will click to the next teeth on the quadrant providing a tighter cable. The teeth are made of plastic so they may be worn, and most likely are so worn that they will not seperate enough to move to the next spot.
I have this problem every couple months and always notice that it gets hard to shift and the engage point is close to the floor. Get your trusty flashlight, move your seat back, lie on your back, and move your head close to the firewall so you can see how the thing works. Move the clutch pedal and you will understand how the adjuster operates. You will need to get both hands up there so you can hold the quadrant and then manually click it to the next tooth. You might be able to have someone move the clutch pedal up while you hold the quadrant (it is stout) but I've always been able to handle it by myself.
It's a pain in the *** , but now I can do it in less than a minute.
Also check to make sure that the adjuster hasn't simply run out of teeth on the quadrant. That would mean that you are completely out of adjustment.

A T-5 hint. I think the manual also descibes the correct adjustment point (also might be a personal preference), but a properly adjusted clutch can take several seconds for the synchros to mesh when shifting to rev from nuetral. The east way to get most Stangs into reverse quickly (without grinding) is to go into 5th and then straight down to R.

Hope this helps. If not, try a new cable or different kind of (non-Ford) adjuster.

01-23-2001, 01:18 AM	#10
DZEE'S LX Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 117	You guys are on the right track. Assuming that your clutch is installed correctly, adjustment is the key. A Haynes manual will explain this, but Ford did attempt to design an adjustment feature into the Stang clutch cable. The problem is that it doesn't work very well. You are supposed to pull up on the pedal with at least 10 or more pounds of pressure. This is when you should hear the click that you are not hearing. If it were working the cogs will click to the next teeth on the quadrant providing a tighter cable. The teeth are made of plastic so they may be worn, and most likely are so worn that they will not seperate enough to move to the next spot. I have this problem every couple months and always notice that it gets hard to shift and the engage point is close to the floor. Get your trusty flashlight, move your seat back, lie on your back, and move your head close to the firewall so you can see how the thing works. Move the clutch pedal and you will understand how the adjuster operates. You will need to get both hands up there so you can hold the quadrant and then manually click it to the next tooth. You might be able to have someone move the clutch pedal up while you hold the quadrant (it is stout) but I've always been able to handle it by myself. It's a pain in the *** , but now I can do it in less than a minute. Also check to make sure that the adjuster hasn't simply run out of teeth on the quadrant. That would mean that you are completely out of adjustment. A T-5 hint. I think the manual also descibes the correct adjustment point (also might be a personal preference), but a properly adjusted clutch can take several seconds for the synchros to mesh when shifting to rev from nuetral. The east way to get most Stangs into reverse quickly (without grinding) is to go into 5th and then straight down to R. Hope this helps. If not, try a new cable or different kind of (non-Ford) adjuster.