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Old 12-23-2003, 10:49 AM   #5
QuantumMotorsports
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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I have done fronts a few times, with and without the spring compressor. Definately try to get one. The springs won't launch out if you use a floor jack and lower them slowly. The problem is getting them back in. If you try to get them back in by leaving the control arm bolted to the K member which is probably the safest and really easiest way in my opinion, the problem is the spring will go back in like that, but the control arm is hanging almost straight down for the spring to go in so when you try to jack up the control arm it can be a major pain. If you have lowering springs that you're putting in, they might be shorter than stock so it might be easier. The most recent springs I put in were 4 cyl springs with one coil cut off and they went in pretty easy cause they were so short. And to my surprise, the car doesn't sit as low as everyone said it would. Haven't driven it yet to settle them in though. As for the alignment, get it as close as you can when you put the car back together. I did a ghetto alignment with a pen laser and a yard stick (if you want to try this, ask me how, i'll tell you) Anyway, good luck, oh, and give yourself a full weekend or maybe more to do this if it's your first time.
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Michael Black
QuantumMotorsports
Norman, OK

1984 LX Hatch
306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat.
Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites
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