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crazypete · 07-28-2004, 08:03 AM

Um.....

what he said =)

Actually, I used an edelbrock performer intake, holley 670 cfm, I bought the FMS mechanical fuel pump (if you're going mechanical, go all the way and make your fuel pump mechanical too) and the FMS timing chain cover to hold it. You'll need an eccentric for the cam to run the fuel pump: FMS makes one for $30. Trust me it's better than dealing with stupid relays and electric pumps. I did the 85 mustang distributor (vacuum advance will not work with the avenger for some reason, count on that), but mine had to have the distributor gear changed from iron to steel so I guess it wasnt really an 85. I did the MSD box, it's the way to go. Get the bigger aircleaner. One thing....your stock cables will not work. Get the lokar throttle cable. I had been driving around for 2 years with WOT being only 60% butterfly opening. The ratio was all wrong. Get the lokar kickdown kit if you're AOD. For the gastank and fuel lines, I cut and slipped hose over the fuel lines. Easy as pie. For the tank, I removed the pump, pulle dout the motor and used a piece of fuel hose slightly longer than necessary so it turns sideways when it hits the bottom. No problems ~2 years. Get a phelonic spacer or the garage will reek of gas (I love it!) when you stop the car and the heat cooks off the gas in the carb fuel bowls.

I think the A/C has some relay thats computer controlled so it may not work. Good excuse to rip it out. Also, the tab/tad solenoids are now useless. Bypass them and run the airpump directly to the crossover in the back of the heads. You wont get detonation/backfire. I never did. The edelbrock doesnt have provisions for the PCV fitting so attach a hose to the filler neck fitting on the valve cover and dump the PCV gasses somewhere behind the car. Now you can strip 25 pounds of wire, relays and other crap out of the car. Good stuff! My enginebay is super clean and empty.

Since my swap, I have NEVER had the car mysteriously die. It ALWAYS starts. Sometimes it will be a bit lopey if the temp or humidity changed drastically but I get by running the same jets year round. extra gas in the summer, just right in the winter (thats right, the ole girl hits the snow).

When you do upgrades, you dont need expensive calibrations to chips or a new mass air meter and injectors, you get a $6 pack of jets and turn some screws. You dont like what the car is doing....turn some screws. It's fun and very rewarding!

I got 23 mpg highway carbed with 3.73's and a t-5 with stock heads. I'm down to 18 now with an AOD and 4.56's

07-28-2004, 08:03 AM	#8
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Um..... what he said =) Actually, I used an edelbrock performer intake, holley 670 cfm, I bought the FMS mechanical fuel pump (if you're going mechanical, go all the way and make your fuel pump mechanical too) and the FMS timing chain cover to hold it. You'll need an eccentric for the cam to run the fuel pump: FMS makes one for $30. Trust me it's better than dealing with stupid relays and electric pumps. I did the 85 mustang distributor (vacuum advance will not work with the avenger for some reason, count on that), but mine had to have the distributor gear changed from iron to steel so I guess it wasnt really an 85. I did the MSD box, it's the way to go. Get the bigger aircleaner. One thing....your stock cables will not work. Get the lokar throttle cable. I had been driving around for 2 years with WOT being only 60% butterfly opening. The ratio was all wrong. Get the lokar kickdown kit if you're AOD. For the gastank and fuel lines, I cut and slipped hose over the fuel lines. Easy as pie. For the tank, I removed the pump, pulle dout the motor and used a piece of fuel hose slightly longer than necessary so it turns sideways when it hits the bottom. No problems ~2 years. Get a phelonic spacer or the garage will reek of gas (I love it!) when you stop the car and the heat cooks off the gas in the carb fuel bowls. I think the A/C has some relay thats computer controlled so it may not work. Good excuse to rip it out. Also, the tab/tad solenoids are now useless. Bypass them and run the airpump directly to the crossover in the back of the heads. You wont get detonation/backfire. I never did. The edelbrock doesnt have provisions for the PCV fitting so attach a hose to the filler neck fitting on the valve cover and dump the PCV gasses somewhere behind the car. Now you can strip 25 pounds of wire, relays and other crap out of the car. Good stuff! My enginebay is super clean and empty. Since my swap, I have NEVER had the car mysteriously die. It ALWAYS starts. Sometimes it will be a bit lopey if the temp or humidity changed drastically but I get by running the same jets year round. extra gas in the summer, just right in the winter (thats right, the ole girl hits the snow). When you do upgrades, you dont need expensive calibrations to chips or a new mass air meter and injectors, you get a $6 pack of jets and turn some screws. You dont like what the car is doing....turn some screws. It's fun and very rewarding! I got 23 mpg highway carbed with 3.73's and a t-5 with stock heads. I'm down to 18 now with an AOD and 4.56's __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior