Good call, you can probably bore that puppy out for EGR, np. Never occurred to me.
Hehehe.
With EGR or any other diagnostic codes you have to be careful. Everybody thinks because there's a code for something that the particular part is bad. Usually it's NOT. For example: my 4-banger idled way too high, pulled codes, said bad MAP sensor. Replaced it, but no change. Gee, it ended up being a leaking $0.89 gasket, didn't have to spend the $50 on a new MAP sensor that I did.
In your EGR case, I've seen cracked vacuum hoses throw those codes more often than not, and of course it would because the computer controls EGR through pulsing vacuum to the valve. Then it looks to see that its orders were carried out. When vacuum isn't available because of those cracks, the command can't be carried out, the EGR position sensor sees no movement, and boom, there's your trouble code. Just start by doing a thorough visual and a wiggle test, test individual components, and go from there. Don't just start throwing $$$ at the problem, fix it right! It costs less. Good luck.
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Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch 
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