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crazypete · 10-06-2004, 07:22 AM

On some old 72 351C heads that I had, it took a 15 pound deadblow mallet to get the valves out. If the engine has not been operated in a while....this happens on occasion. Reason is that there is no clearance in there so it is very easy for things to rust together. You're dealing with valve locks. Now I'll be darned but those shouldnt stick for any reason!

Do this: Stand the head on it's end so the cylinders are not against any surface. Get a small hammer and tap the intake valve tops on the other side (where the valvelocks are) to get the spring to compress a bit. Basically you are shaking them up a bit. Do this to your heart's content. Maybe a piece of wood inbetween so you don't chip the valve stems. They should be much more agreeable.

Careful....there might be coolant passages underneath huge bumps....keep that in mind.

This is for E7 heads but the principles are the same, they are smogger heads. Read this page and all of it's links:
http://www.diyporting.com/E7prj.html
http://www.cmc.net/~xero/Mousesporting.html
I ported up my gt-40p's based on what I read here.

Concentrated on the short turn floor, the bowl area and grind the guide boss down for best results. All of these smog heads are anemic in the exhaust ports so spend more time there than in the intake. I recommend 40-60 grit metal sanding sandpaper, rolled into tubes, for the intake runners, sanding flapwheels+dremel for the combustion chambers, rotary file+dremel for the bowl area. Substitue die grinder for dremel if available. Dont forget to gasket match both the heads and the intake

Good luck!

Crazy Pete

10-06-2004, 07:22 AM	#2
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	On some old 72 351C heads that I had, it took a 15 pound deadblow mallet to get the valves out. If the engine has not been operated in a while....this happens on occasion. Reason is that there is no clearance in there so it is very easy for things to rust together. You're dealing with valve locks. Now I'll be darned but those shouldnt stick for any reason! Do this: Stand the head on it's end so the cylinders are not against any surface. Get a small hammer and tap the intake valve tops on the other side (where the valvelocks are) to get the spring to compress a bit. Basically you are shaking them up a bit. Do this to your heart's content. Maybe a piece of wood inbetween so you don't chip the valve stems. They should be much more agreeable. Careful....there might be coolant passages underneath huge bumps....keep that in mind. This is for E7 heads but the principles are the same, they are smogger heads. Read this page and all of it's links: http://www.diyporting.com/E7prj.html http://www.cmc.net/~xero/Mousesporting.html I ported up my gt-40p's based on what I read here. Concentrated on the short turn floor, the bowl area and grind the guide boss down for best results. All of these smog heads are anemic in the exhaust ports so spend more time there than in the intake. I recommend 40-60 grit metal sanding sandpaper, rolled into tubes, for the intake runners, sanding flapwheels+dremel for the combustion chambers, rotary file+dremel for the bowl area. Substitue die grinder for dremel if available. Dont forget to gasket match both the heads and the intake Good luck! Crazy Pete __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior