First off, NEVER put RTV silicone anywhere near a carburetor. If you need it to seal the base gasket, you have a much bigger problem that needs to be addressed. There is never a good reason to use silicone on a carb, but there are dozens of reasons not to.
What do you mean 'the secondary transfer slots are there, but aren't cut out?
Forget the A/F gauge, all you need is a vacuum gauge.
Check the compression and see if the valves are closing all the way. If they are, get a can of Brakleen (green can, NOT the red can!), remove the idle mixture screws, and spray the Brakleen into the openings where the mixture screws go. Then spray it into the air bleeds above the boosters. Reinstall the mixture screws, turning them all the way in until they seat, and then back them out two and a half turns. Back the idle speed screw out all the way, and make sure the butterflies are seated. Turn the screw back in until the butterflies start to open, then turn it in two more turns. Remove the sight plugs from the sides of the bowls. Make sure every vacuum port on the carb is capped. Attach your vacuum gauge to the intake. Start it up. Watch the sight plug holes on the sides of the bowls, and make sure the floats are set correctly, then put the plugs back in. Turn the idle speed screw until the rpms are around 800. While watching the vacuum gauge, turn the idle mixture screws, evenly in quarter-turn increments, so that the vacuum gauge goes up. When the gauge will no longer go up, back the idle back down to 800 rpms with the idle speed screw. Then, work the mixture screws again, trying to get the vacuum gauge to go up. When it will no longer go up, and the idle speed is around 800 rpms, turn each idle mixture screw in 1/8th of a turn.
That should take care of everything, assuming your valves are adjusted properly, and your ignition timing is correct.
|