I think he's just reporting the fact that the downshift is slushy feeling at lower speeds, and yes, partially due to OD & lockup.
However, it's a direct function of throttle valve (TV) pressure. You don't have as much TV pressure at lower speeds because, typically, the engine is spinning slower and the throttle valve isn't open as far. The throttle DIRECTLY augments the position of the TV cable running from the throttle body to the transmission linkage. The TV cable is the only input the transmission has regarding the load upon the engine; there is no vacuum modulator or kickdown rod as on older, less sophisticated automatic transmissions. As such, it monitors throttle position directly, and is constantly augmenting TV pressure (the pressure which is responsible for the firmness AND timing of each upshift and downshift).
I believe this is where the root of the problem lies with most AOD-equipped vehicles: the plastic grommet that the TV cable end snaps into (at the throttle body) wears out, and the shifting characteristics of the transmission are gravely changed. So much so that it can be one of the chief reasons that the transmission fails. Most owners will just have the transmission rebuilt or replaced, but they never actually fix the
cause of the problem. All that is necessary is a short trip to the local Ford dealer for a new TV cable grommet, and <5 minutes to complete the repair.
In addition, the proper adjustment of the cable is CRITICAL to proper operation of the AOD!!! Even moving the sliding adjuster at the end of the cable ONE TOOTH (~1/32") can cause a big difference in performance. Pick up a small flat-blade screwdriver and a Haynes manual to learn how to adjust it properly, and you'll almost be guaranteed a difference in overall "feel". Personally, I like to crank mine up just one micro-smidgeon (yeah, I just invented that unit of measure
) so it holds the gears out a little longer on takeoff (that shift to 3rd is a b!tch IMHO).
One final note: there's a good possibility that your valve body is plugged with goo from years of useage. The fix? Easy as cake. Arm yourself with a 10mm socket and socket wrench after you've dropped the pan (you're gonna be changing the filter and gasket here too, so get the stuff to do it FIRST). Following a transmission repair manual -- again, Haynes makes a great one -- drop the valve body. Spray it out thoroughly with BRAKE PARTS CLEANER
ONLY!!! This is the only aerosol cleaner that's going to do three things vital to success: 1) it leaves no residue, 2) it will not harm rubber seals in the transmission, and 3) it cleans like a mother. After spraying it out and letting it dry by air, do it again. While that's drying, spray out the pan.
The best point to install a shift kit is here. Your valve body is out and clean, and a shift kit is going to virtually eliminate any sloppy shifting by stopping the overlap of engagements. Not only does the trans shift faster and respond more quickly, but it'll last much longer. I basically "roll my own" because I've had the (mis)fortune of having a few AODs fail and repairs were left in my hands. It's amazing what you can learn from careful inspection of failed or fatigued parts...and it's even more amazing when they all fail in the same way! *sigh* I digress...
If you're not in business after this, a new transmission may be in due order. Cranking TV pressure a ludicrous amout skyward isn't going to help for long, and will completely destroy what's left of the clutches and bands eventually. Spend the clams and get a good AOD, and never worry again. I highly recommend Art Carr and Lentech; I'm getting the latter once I graduate college.
Having said all that, I'm moving this to the
Windsor Power Forum. It's where this type of question belongs, and you'll get more responses in there. In the future, ya might wanna try a more descriptive topic. Not a flame, just good advice.
