10-4 on that good quality pump shaft! The stockers do like to twist off! Don't forget to put the little clip on it to keep it from pulling up when you pull the distrib out. Take a look at where it is on the old shaft. when installing especially valve cover and oil pan bolts, get some cheap carb spray and clean both the bolts and the holes, then air dry with comp air. (get ALL the oil/grease off the bolts and out of the holes) Then use loctite on the bolts and torque to specs. They'll never work loose and leak, especially if you use the good neoprene gaskets which you can reuse. On either sheet metal v covers or pan you're re-using, make sure to re-flatten any flange surfaces that have pulled in due to tightening the bolts. On the starter, I've found it much easier to take off the pass side header - then you can easily reach the top starter bolt. (don't forget to disconnect the batt before u do this!) The header is easy to put in after the motor goes in. On bolts where you don't need sealant (like front cover, some water pump bolts, exhaust manifold etc use anti-seize - MUCH easier to remove if you ever have to. When cleaning old gaskets off of thin things like oil pan & covers, careful with the scraper - don't gouge the surfaces. Either a good engine gasket scraper, or the side edge of a wood chisel (you do what you gotta do!) works good. If old gaskets are really hard, you can get permatex spray gasket remover to soften them first, but don't breath it!! Use a rubber mallet to break loose things stuck together with gaskets - like intakes, heads, water pump etc - then you won't break anything. Don't hammer the dampener back on - get a puller/installer. To pre-lube the engine before you fire it, with the distributor out, take a couple long extensions (make sure they fasten together firmly!) and using a speed wrench or similar and a (forget the size - check it on the oil pump shaft) put the socket on the oil pump shaft in thru the distrib hole and turn clockwise (I think - anybody remember?) till you feel resistance (takes about 30 seconds to feel resistance, if not maybe go the other way) - that's oil pumping - turn rapidly for a minute or so and you'll have oil thruout the whole motor before you turn it over the first time. Absolutely BEST thing I've found to loosen rusty or stuck bolts is STP general pupose lube spray (like WD40 but SO much better at loosening rusty stuff like exhaust!!) Spray on several times and let soak even overnite. For a stubborn bolt, if you can get it to loosen just a little, spray it, then turn it tight, then loose again - work it back & forth instead of trying to force it. Keep spraying it and working back & forth & it'll come out without breaking off which can ruin your whole day! Enjoy - DON'T get frustrated - take time to think things thru and ENJOY!! Careful with those little clips on the sides of the plugs that hook to the injectors - they like to break. Get NEW grommets for your AOD throttle valve cable connection at the throttle body arm (if you have auto) you can get 2 at Ford for a couple bucks - but you need to know the color of the old ones. DO NOT reuse the old bushings. They like to break, your connection falls apart, and your AOD goes GONE.
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