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Paul 69 Mach I · 03-20-2005, 10:29 AM

gbeals
If your having overheating problems I'm make the radiator my priority. You don't want to keep overheating a newly rebuilt engine.

As far as the seat belts, your obviously not going stock so I would look in NPD or California Mustang. You can get a 3 point seat belt conversion kit for about $250. Very easy to install.

As far as your carb, you should look @ Edlebrock you can get a matched carb & intake manifold at a reasonable price.

As far as the tires & wheels your probably best taking the car in to where you will buy them to match everything up. I'd hate to recommend stuff & see it won't fit.

A word of caution, before you start throwing all this HP under the hood make sure you stiffen up your frame. I'd suggest subframe connectors & an export brace. Total for both are less than $200 & both can be bolted on. (I'd recommend welding the sub frame connectors though.) Both will reduce body flex & twist. I know neither are pretty & neither make it go any faster but it's a small price to pay compared to fixing a body that's had the s*** torqued out of it.

As far as the MFG date of the engine It never really mattered to me so I've never checked it out.

03-20-2005, 10:29 AM	#9
Paul 69 Mach I Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 27	Re: Just bought a 68 gbeals If your having overheating problems I'm make the radiator my priority. You don't want to keep overheating a newly rebuilt engine. As far as the seat belts, your obviously not going stock so I would look in NPD or California Mustang. You can get a 3 point seat belt conversion kit for about $250. Very easy to install. As far as your carb, you should look @ Edlebrock you can get a matched carb & intake manifold at a reasonable price. As far as the tires & wheels your probably best taking the car in to where you will buy them to match everything up. I'd hate to recommend stuff & see it won't fit. A word of caution, before you start throwing all this HP under the hood make sure you stiffen up your frame. I'd suggest subframe connectors & an export brace. Total for both are less than $200 & both can be bolted on. (I'd recommend welding the sub frame connectors though.) Both will reduce body flex & twist. I know neither are pretty & neither make it go any faster but it's a small price to pay compared to fixing a body that's had the s*** torqued out of it. As far as the MFG date of the engine It never really mattered to me so I've never checked it out.