I am glad my reply could be of assistance to you!
I was thinking about your question regarding the roller rockers, and the cam suggestions. I've seen them install roller rockers by themselves on modern 5.0s (which have roller cams) that saw a worthwhile increase in horsepower, so alone the rockers must count for something with their decrease in friction. So I think roller rockers are a pretty safe bet. Plus, you can reuse the rockers if you get a roller cam down the line--that is what I did. I was running the rockers with a hydraulic cam.
As for straight bolt on, probably not the Crane rockers. The 1.73 Rockers (and probably similarly sized 1.6) are pretty big. They didn't fit under my open letter Cobra valve covers at all. So I bought a set of proper matching 1" spacers from Tony D. Branda Shelby and Mustangs (which looked ugly underneath the valvecovers) and the rockers seemed to fit fine underneath, but later on I discovered they were rubbing the edges. So check clearances if you go the spacer route, and grind the spacers accordingly (there was plenty of material to remove).
But what I ended up doing was springing the $$$ for the Raised open letter Cobra aluminum valve covers from Tony D. Branda (which looked great), and are made to clear roller rockers. But even if you go this route, check clearences as well to be safe. You don't want to see chunks taken out of your rockers--ask me how I know.
As for cam choices....I know edelbrock does a lot of R&D on their products--and its easy to find out from them what power levels you can from bolting on their specific components. If you want to go with Edelbrock heads, they've already gone through the trouble of designing cams and intakes to match them. So that would be one avenue to explore.
Other than that I would suggest getting a cam ground for your application. But if that is a bit pricey, I would sit down with some software or an engine builder with Ford PERFORMANCE experience to pick one--they usually have some good ideas as they've seen some pretty good examples. Crane, Comp Cams, and Lunati make some good products. And I know Crane makes a full roller coversion if your interested, and so does Lunati, but pricing is standard for a roller--$$$. But I think it's worth it...
.......As for the 0.060" overbore, Ron, I certainly understand and appreciate your concern. You are right to be cautiou! I had to do it to clean up the bores, and my engine guy said it would be fine--even though all the mags don't really agree. It should be fine with all the nauturally aspirated power that will be available, but you're right I may be pushing it a bit with a hefty shot of nitrous.
My engine guy gave me the green light to mess with the gass, but we haven't discussed how much yet. But all the internals are forged, and all the bolts are upgraded to ARP, and the bottom end is getting strengthened. The only thing I have to worry about is a block crack....which I will avoid smartly!
But I don't think I'll hit the nitrous for awhile after the block is back in, and the car is on the road. I'll probably only use it at the track too, or on some ego building dyno runs! I've got some serious suspension and drivetrain strengthening to do anyway. And I want this rebuild to last for awhile. So I'm going to get one of those tunable dual shot sytems, so I can take it easy....or poor it on if ever I get courageous enough
Oh, and I am making the proper cooling system upgrades too i.e. Edelbrock water pump, Aluminum radiator, and high flow thermo! Hopefully she'll run just right...
Dan