I wouldn't take this as gospel but here is what I would suggest.
1) Eibach Drag Springs. I have 4cyl springs up front from a fox body car and stock 2000 V8 springs in the rear cut 1/2 coil. I wouldn't suggest going that route unless you like working and adjusting your suspension.
2) Subframe connectors. Should be done anyway to keep the body straight and reduces body flex.
3) Remove front sway bar. You might have this already done but it will help with weight transfer.
These should help out immensely but if you still have problems look at struts and control arms next. But I've seen people do the spring route and make a big difference. For struts go with Lakewood 70/30 or 90/10 or Koni adjustables if you can afford it. I have the 70/30's only because I had them laying around from my 89 LX. I wouldn't bother replacing the rear since stock they are 50/50's and the Lakewood drag shocks are 50/50.
For control arms I would suggest getting adjustable uppers and solid lowers (stock replace no southside bars) with urathane bushings.
On my car I went with solid metal bushings on all points except for the upper control arm rear end mount and because of that the ride is pretty noisy and it also shredded my factory upper control rear side bushings. Personally the noise doesn't bother me but to some it can get annoying. Also if something else to consider is that if you go with metal bushings is you should really have your torque boxes welded up. It doesn't take much to rip them, although it's more of a concern with slicks.
Bill
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00 GT, MAC Offroad H, Steeda Pulleys & Timing Adjuster, C&L 80mm, 4.30’s, Flows w/turndowns, UPR shifter, UPR Pro Series LCA’s, Lakewood 70/30’s & 50/50’s, 253.8 RWHP/292.8RWTQ
Best ET 12.91
Best MPH 105.49
M/M 100, 7085
2001 Mod Motor Shootout 2V NA Champion
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