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Skankin · 03-16-2001, 04:16 PM

I've been running that for a couple of years... definitely better than stock, nice ride, but handling could be better.

I got the 5300B springs, with the 425-530# fronts... I'd suggest the 5300C springs, with the 600# fronts.

If it's performance you want, it's probably worth it to step up to the Tokico Hi-performance (non-adjustable) shocks & struts.

I needed more adjustment than what the stock cc plates allowed. I could only get -1.2deg camber, and it wore the inside of the tires a bit.

Other considerations are stiffer lower control arm bushings up front, new lca's for the rear, subframe connectors, and a lower chassis brace.

I've went the cheap route... now I wanna go a better route. I removed the pinion snubber, so it wouldn't hit as much, but now it bottoms out on the axle stops when someone is in the back. I'd like to get stiffer springs, and remove the UCA's (get a panhard & Torque arm or something).

03-16-2001, 04:16 PM	#3
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	I've been running that for a couple of years... definitely better than stock, nice ride, but handling could be better. I got the 5300B springs, with the 425-530# fronts... I'd suggest the 5300C springs, with the 600# fronts. If it's performance you want, it's probably worth it to step up to the Tokico Hi-performance (non-adjustable) shocks & struts. I needed more adjustment than what the stock cc plates allowed. I could only get -1.2deg camber, and it wore the inside of the tires a bit. Other considerations are stiffer lower control arm bushings up front, new lca's for the rear, subframe connectors, and a lower chassis brace. I've went the cheap route... now I wanna go a better route. I removed the pinion snubber, so it wouldn't hit as much, but now it bottoms out on the axle stops when someone is in the back. I'd like to get stiffer springs, and remove the UCA's (get a panhard & Torque arm or something).