How to change intake manifold/Tips?

twilightcall · 09-03-2003, 03:58 PM

I am getting a new carb and intake manifold for my 83' 5.0 HO. I am pretty excited. I was wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks or helpful procedures on the best way to do this. I have my charcoal canisters hooked up. Should I remove the EGR too? Should I remove the carb then the intake or take them both off at once? Do I need to torque the intake manifold or just tighten it snug? Gasket sealer? If so what kind? I am getting Felpro intake gaskets. Thanks for the help.

302 LX Eric · 09-03-2003, 04:24 PM

1) FELPRO gaskets are great. It's what I use.

2) I use Permatex Black gasket sealer/maker.

3) Quick Tip - ditch the stupid cork gaskets that seal the lower intake to the block...they just slide all over and are difficult to line-up properly. Just use a generous amount of Permatex and you'll be fine.

4) Definitely use a torque wrench on the intake bolts and follow the correct torque pattern and ft. lbs. on each 'round' of torquing. Doing this will help properly seat the intake and will prevent broken bolts (I've seen this happen) and will ensure good sealing.

5) Have fun.

E

twilightcall · 09-03-2003, 05:14 PM

Thanks for the help. I have some black Permatex so I am in good shape. I will look up the bolt sequence.

88workcar · 09-03-2003, 06:03 PM

If you have the time permatex the cork down one night and install the intake the next night. Like this they will not move.

twilightcall · 09-04-2003, 05:43 PM

Thanks for the help. My stock setup on my 83' has 2 ports on the carb for the 2 charcoal canisters and I have EGR too. My new manifold is non-EGR. Can I remove all of these items without harming my engine or ?. I have already removed my smog pump and plugged them in the rear. Thanks Again.

bottlebaby91 · 09-06-2003, 02:01 AM

dont just torque all the bolts once, recheck the torques after you get them all torqued, you will find that you will have to repeat the process a few times until it actually seats all the way.

09-08-2003, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bottlebaby91
dont just torque all the bolts once, recheck the torques after you get them all torqued, you will find that you will have to repeat the process a few times until it actually seats all the way.

Especially after the motor has ran...had a chance to warm up and cool off. Definitely recheck them again.

09-03-2003, 03:58 PM	#1
twilightcall Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 86	How to change intake manifold/Tips? I am getting a new carb and intake manifold for my 83' 5.0 HO. I am pretty excited. I was wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks or helpful procedures on the best way to do this. I have my charcoal canisters hooked up. Should I remove the EGR too? Should I remove the carb then the intake or take them both off at once? Do I need to torque the intake manifold or just tighten it snug? Gasket sealer? If so what kind? I am getting Felpro intake gaskets. Thanks for the help.

09-03-2003, 04:24 PM	#2
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	1) FELPRO gaskets are great. It's what I use. 2) I use Permatex Black gasket sealer/maker. 3) Quick Tip - ditch the stupid cork gaskets that seal the lower intake to the block...they just slide all over and are difficult to line-up properly. Just use a generous amount of Permatex and you'll be fine. 4) Definitely use a torque wrench on the intake bolts and follow the correct torque pattern and ft. lbs. on each 'round' of torquing. Doing this will help properly seat the intake and will prevent broken bolts (I've seen this happen) and will ensure good sealing. 5) Have fun. E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

09-03-2003, 06:03 PM	#4
88workcar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A. Posts: 1,850	If you have the time permatex the cork down one night and install the intake the next night. Like this they will not move. __________________ 88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle.

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09-03-2003, 05:14 PM	#3
twilightcall Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 86	Thanks for the help. I have some black Permatex so I am in good shape. I will look up the bolt sequence.

09-04-2003, 05:43 PM	#5
twilightcall Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 86	Thanks for the help. My stock setup on my 83' has 2 ports on the carb for the 2 charcoal canisters and I have EGR too. My new manifold is non-EGR. Can I remove all of these items without harming my engine or ?. I have already removed my smog pump and plugged them in the rear. Thanks Again.

09-06-2003, 02:01 AM	#6
bottlebaby91 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 141	dont just torque all the bolts once, recheck the torques after you get them all torqued, you will find that you will have to repeat the process a few times until it actually seats all the way.