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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: minnesota
Posts: 129
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![]() was talking with a friend of mine the other night.
when you terminate the pcv vlave into the air cleaner or manifold, oil accumulates and makes a heck of a mess.. would'nt it work if you welded an angled connection to the exhaust and run a steel line from the pcv valve to the exhaust?? no more mess..
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91 LX 'work in progress' previous stangs; lightly modded 84GT 81 2.3 converted to 302 auto |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() The idea is to use vacuum to pull the fumes from your crankcase. Running the line to your exhaust makes no sense at all
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 375
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![]() Well technically you could get a little suction using your exhaust. If you managed to get a pipe bent so that you could maintain some type of flow capaticy, your exhaust gasses would haveenought speed to create a pressure difference and form sometpe of suction. Compared to what your manifold creates, its probably ridiculously small...
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'89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Columbus
Posts: 5
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![]() Good idea although.... Read on from Mr. Gasket
Mr. Gasket Crankcase Evacuation System Built primarily for drag race applications, this system is designed to reduce pressure build-up in the engine crank-case. The results are better piston ring seal, less intake charge contamination, and reduced oil leaks, while increasing engine performance. Includes two chrome plated push-on valve cover breathers, breather grommets, check valves and 3-1/2'' long threaded tubes. Tubes must be welded into collectors. This must be used with a oil baffle. I had installed this and found that without the baffle plates installed into the valve covers you will pull oil right into the collectors. Check them out at Jeg's or Summit - $35 or so... |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() I would think you would need Hi temperature check valves to withstand exhaust fumes. Were they metal, or like the plastic PCV valves?
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#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() The check valves are just like the ones in the smog line going to the cat.
Take care, -Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Columbus
Posts: 5
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![]() The kit I purchased has steel tube's that I welded into place on the H-Pipe. This is the best idea that I have seen for releasing crack pressure. Everyone I know running a street/strip Mustang has it.
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#8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() They've been around for 50+ years. They don't see as much use anymore because most people these days don't like the oil in the exhaust.
Take care, -Chris
__________________
Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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