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#1 |
I got something to say
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,557
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![]() Ok, I need a new alternator. i am thinking of upgrading to a 130 from a 94-95 stang. Is this just a bolt in swap? I just bought a Optima Red Top battery if that matters. Is the one wire conversion easy and worth it? Thanks in advance.
Later, Nick
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91 LX Hatch 5.0 - made for the twisties 89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05 ![]() http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494 1987 Toyota Pickup Ricer Haters Club Member #33 Want a custom gauge cluster for your Vintage Mustang? www.jmeenterprises.com |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: corinth miss
Posts: 19
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![]() tomorrow i can tell you or post a pic and show or tell you what to do. i have 1 on my 89 coupe with a carb engine.
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Billy P. |
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#3 |
I got something to say
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,557
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![]() sweet man that would be awesome. I dont know if thier is much difference between an efi and carbed setup but im sure it will help
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91 LX Hatch 5.0 - made for the twisties 89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05 ![]() http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494 1987 Toyota Pickup Ricer Haters Club Member #33 Want a custom gauge cluster for your Vintage Mustang? www.jmeenterprises.com |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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![]() check out http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/index.htm
one more thing that they don't do on this site but is a good idea is to replace the one main wire all the way to the battery with a larger guage wire. More current needs more wire so you don't have a melt down and ruin all your hard work on your car. later Conrad
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![]() '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
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#5 |
Sober voice of Reason
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Posts: 1,514
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![]() I went with a 110 A alternator from a T-bird S/C. It bolted right in with no bracket grinding and I just modified my wiring harness since my car had an external regulator and the whole install was less than 1/2 hour including wiring. It was also a lot cheaper than the 130A and I get 13.3V at idle with underdrives and all the accessories going. The only snag is the pulley is 8 rib instead of 6 but it still works fine.
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393W: AFR 205's, hydraulic roller, TKO600. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: corinth miss
Posts: 19
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![]() you can build a new harness cheap! just use 1 heavy gage wire from the HOT side of your strarter solenoid over to the terminal on the back of the alt. thats the only 'stud with nut terminal'. make sure you find the right plug off a car that has the 130 amp alt also. Off that plug you will see a White wire with a small plug that plugs back into the alt. you will see a small Yellow Wire that you can just strip, put a terminal on it and install also on the stud/nut terminal. 1 other wire left "Green-With Red Stripe" just run it to 12v IGN. you will have that same Green-Red Stripe wire on your old harness. You can tie into it or just find another 12v IGN somewhere. I left my old harness and just ran that one heavier wire & tied into the Green-Red Stripe on the old harness.
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Billy P. |
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