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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 41
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![]() How do you take out the cam bearings? And how do you put your new ones in? These are coming out of a 289. My Haynes book says that I need to take the block somewhere and let someone else do it. I don't think that is all necessary. Maybe it is? I dont' know. I'm sure I can get them out by just ripping them. I would rather see how they come out nicely so I can see how they were put in. Looks like there is a locking tab of some sort that holds them together. I know you all know more about this. I'm sure you've seen them before.
![]() Thanks,
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66 Coupe Project, 289-C4 |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: calgary alberta canada
Posts: 366
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![]() Like most things, it's easy when you have the right tools. This tool is called a "cam bearing puller/installer". As the name suggests, its a dedicted tool. I would guess that if you were to do this about ten times it would pay for itself. So I would just get a shop to do it.
But why are doing this anyway? Cam bearing almost never wear out. They only time they get changed is when the block is hot tanked, as it kills bearing material.
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires. my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250 NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft corrects to:13.86@100 66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver 12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft corrects to:11.69@115 |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 41
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![]() I am rebuilding this engine. I really want to replace all major parts inside. Being that I am a rookie at this, I would think those would be replaced as well. Plus, I messed up the number 1 bearing already getting the cam out. As I have been looking at all the parts I will need to rebuild, a kit seems the way to go for me. It comes with new cam bearings and I think/thought I should put new in since it is already torn down to the block.
Maybe I will take it in for the cam bearings or see if I can rent this tool somewhere. Like you said gofast, I am only doing this once that I know of. Thank you
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66 Coupe Project, 289-C4 |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 245
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![]() For what it's worth, let the machine shop thats doing the work to the block install them., and new freeze plugs too. If you dont have the right tool or they aren't aligned properly or you scrath one because it's your first time, too many things can go wrong for the $20 it costs to have them put in. For some things you just pay the man.
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1970 Stang Conv: en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted) mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift) Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1) Weiand Excellorator manifold Holley700 DP mech 2nds MSD 6 box and Dis Headers/2 1/2 inch duels tr: modified FMX re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip |
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#5 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() I also recommend letting the machine shop install the cam bearings
The cam bearings are each different and have their own journal that they install on. You can't mix them up!!
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Pendleton Oregon
Posts: 11
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![]() I agree with the rest. Cam bearings are a pain. but the only cam bearings i have ever had to replace were the ones in a Dodge dakota with an over head cam. only did it because the cam broke. wouldn't do it again if i was paid big bucks.
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1968 mustang coupe stock 289 with 2 bbl. c4 automatic My dream car has become a nightmare. |
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