Newbie here - Help me spend $5K on my '66

Captain Save A Hoe · 05-28-2001, 01:32 PM

Ok this is my first post so be gentle

Back in '92 I bought a '66 Mustang Coupe 6 cylinder. It was rust free, straight, quite a looker inside and out. It was a great daily driver too while I was in high school.

Anyway, I went away to college and eventually law school. The car has been garaged ever since '94. I want to turn it back to a daily driver though. Here are the things I am considering. Are there any issues I should know about?

1) install 289 V8 or maybe new Fuel Injection engine w/ dual exhaust

2) convert drum brakes to disc brakes

3) convert manual brakes to power brakes

4) convert manual steering to power steering

5) paint it black (currently white original paint)

6) install 5 lug steel wheels (currently 4 lug wheels)

Are these things possible for $5K or less?

Captain Save A Hoe · 05-28-2001, 01:41 PM

BTW the $5K also includes labor as I only know how to do simple things like change oil, brake pads, spark plugs etc.

I'd venture to do it myself, but I am studying for the bar exam and would really like to drive this thing this summer.

[This message has been edited by Captain Save A Hoe (edited 05-28-2001).]

Mercury · 05-28-2001, 03:15 PM

Doing the work yourself it would be possible to do it for about 3 grand. But its going to be close if you farm the work out. Most Disc brake conversions cost about 700+ dollars, but you could do the junk yard approach.

As for the engine, it would be cheaper to go ahead and just put yourself a carburated 289 or 302 in it, hell even a 351W, but with fuel injection you'll start upping the cost big time since you arent doing the work.

I'm tossing around the thought of fuel injecting my 289.

I'd tackle things like the brake conversion first at the same time converting everything over like the rearend since your going to put a V8 in it. Then check your budget and go from there.

This is how my priorities go when it comes cars and modifying.

1. Safety (brakes, ditch that single resivior master cylinder)
2. Speed/performance
3. Handling
4. Looks

------------------
64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. Period white wall tires. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car. Mods, Rust, rust, and more rust

Power · 05-28-2001, 03:16 PM

Quote:

1) install 289 V8 or maybe new Fuel Injection engine w/ dual exhaust.

This alone could cut into your 5k budget depending on where your getting the motor. Turn key crate motors that are appropriate for your application run into the 3k-4k range. There might be some cheaper ones but that seems to be the average price. Check some out here and here.

Quote:

2) convert drum brakes to disc brakes.

This is something I also am looking into doing. Most of the kits to do this are fairly exspensive(upwards $1000), but another member here ( Rev ) has some information about a cheaper one. You might want to hold off on doing this until you can change out your wheels from 4 lug to 5 lug.

Check prices here. They also have the I6 conversion if you wanted to look at that one.

Quote:

3) convert manual brakes to power brakes

This might be something you should wait on doing till you change out your wheels as well. No sense in changing stuff if your gonna end up pulling it off again.

You can also check the manual to power conversion at the above website. Just check the menu to the left.

Quote:

4) convert manual steering to power steering

A couple of places to look to check prices are here and here. Hopefully that can help you out some.

Quote:

5) paint it black (currently white original paint)

This question is better handled by somebody with some more knowledge of body and paint. I would guess that a really good paint job would be between $1500 and $3500. I'm not really sure about that though.

Quote:

6) install 5 lug steel wheels (currently 4 lug wheels)

This is a little bit harder. The reason there is 4 lug is because of the I6 motor. To change it to 5 lug I believe(I'm not positive) that you would have to find a donor mustang(other cars might be compatable but someone else should confirm that)and pull off the 5 lug hubs and swap them out. It's quite a pain, but it doesnt stop there. You should also change out the front suspension to accomodate the larger motor and maybe change your transmission(??). I don't know what the rear-end was in the I6 but it might need to be changed as well.

To shorten the post, I personally don't believe it can be done for under $5k. Hopefully some other members on here can provide you with some more accurate details than I have.

As you can see from above, I took so long writing this that Mercury beat me to the post.

By the way, welcome to the board. How do you like that Law school stuff?

I'm starting next year(hopefully) with my Law program, majoring in Political Science.

Again, welcome to the board and good luck.
------------------
1966 Baby blue Coupe, 289, Manual 3-speed, Edelbrock 650, Flowmaster 3-chambers, and minor upgrades. Interior work includes custom paneling, custom dash dress-up(I refuse to cut anything out of the original), Rewiring most of the electronics, Porsche 911 seats installed soon, and Stroker kit when I get to Texas. November of 2001 I will go back to Dallas.

[This message has been edited by Power (edited 05-28-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Power (edited 05-28-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Power (edited 05-28-2001).]

Rev · 05-28-2001, 03:36 PM

Don't forget the rear axle. Sixes came with 7 1/2" differentials. So you're looking at a whole new drive train, front suspension, steering, exhaust, paint and body, new disk brake conversion, Trans Am Racing power brake booster and conversion plate (to go with dual chamber master cylinder for the new disks). I wouldn't even worry about conversion to power steering. '66 power steering is pretty sorry. Most folks convert power back to manual. Still pretty easy steering. In short, I don't think you can do all that for $5000. Get some books and try doing some of it yourself. '66 Ford Mustang shop Manual highly recommended. I did do most of what you mentioned and a lot more of other stuff too. Did most of the labor myself and I think I've got more than $15000 just in parts and materials.

I'm not trying to discourage you, but you need a realistic budget so you don't get stuck in the middle with it only half done.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Captain Save A Hoe · 05-28-2001, 05:29 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I agree Mercury, the most important thing for me right now is upgrading the braking system. I remember when I drove this car back in high school, I would fear going down steep hills because the brakes always felt soft.

I can see that swapping out the motor can bring about more issues that I am not ready to decide on like the transmission etc. (It currently has the automatic). Maybe I should just have the inline 6 rebuilt? It ran fine when I last drove it, but it felt a little underpowered to me. If I can get discs all around, power brakes, and rebuild the six with some performance mods for under $5K, I'll be a happy man.

Rev, the reason I am considering power steering is because my GF has a hard time turning the wheel. I can steer it fine, but I like it when she drives me around in a nice car

. But if '66 power steering is indeed lame, I'll stay clear.

Power, thanks for the links...very helpful. Good luck on your first step towards a law degree. I take it you are going to start undergrad right? My advice is to savor the moment. Make sure to stud, but not too hard. You need to party too. I loved college. It was such a blast. I would not mind travelling back in time and doing college again.

However, law school was pure torture. Not that it wasn't valuable. I found the instruction to be quite stimulating. It was my fellow classmates that made like hell. I went to law school on the east coast and the majority of my classmates were from ivy league colleges. The fake attitudes were so thick that one could cut it with a knife. I'd rather die than live through it again. It was a very different experience. I hear most law schools are like that. Feel free to ask for more advice though

[This message has been edited by Captain Save A Hoe (edited 05-28-2001).]

Power · 05-28-2001, 05:37 PM

I studied music theory and composition for 2 years before joining the army, so I remember the fun college days. If you hang around this board I'm sure in about a year I'll have tons of questions for you.

As for the I6 being underpowered, I'm not an expert on the "6" but if I remember right it was underpowered for the size of the car. I could be wrong though....

You could have it rebuilt and it might do ok for now.

Rev · 05-28-2001, 07:05 PM

Stainless Steel Brakes Corp. makes a 4 lug disk conversion. They still use the fruit jar master cylinder for the power brake set up though, I believe. You can get rebuilt control valves and power steering pumps if that's what you need.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Mercury · 05-29-2001, 01:40 AM

If your going to do the disk brake conversion, you should go ahead and convert the car over to five lug, change the rear axle out to a 8 inch or 9 inch if you can find it. I believe (I could possibly be wrong) the front suspension is the same except for the springs.

One problem area might be since your keeping the straight six and tranny in there, but may be changing the rear axle out is the Drive shaft will need to be shortened. I'm not sure about the dimensions of the 7.5 alxe, havent worked on many of them (even though my little 6 has one) Thats nothing expensive though, and any machine shop should be able to handle the task.

------------------
64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. Period white wall tires. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car. Mods, Rust, rust, and more rust

Mercury · 05-29-2001, 02:46 AM

You can build a screaming inline Six. Clifford Perf parts specializes in InLine sixes. Everything from High performance cams to heads, headers, 4 barrel setups.

My friends uncle is builing a 68 Chevelle station wagon for drag racing. He's using an inline six. He had a Chevy II wagon with a six that blistered the quarter mile.

You'd be surprised how strong those engines are. They can take some major abuse.

Stefan · 05-29-2001, 08:32 AM

Here's my two cents. I would say if you are going to go through the troubles of a swap, just start with a V8 car instead. That way money spent will be to improve on the V8 instead of converting everything. $5,000 will go a little farther on an I6 and with the lighter weight up front you can have an excellent handling car. I may seem a little biased towards the sixes as my 66 has one, but I just think they are cool little engines that are often overlooked. Like Mercury said, Clifford Perf. can really wake those engines up. The choice is yours but I would say keep the six and dress it up. You'll have a good paying job soon enough and you can just buy a cherry 289 Stang and have the best of both worlds

BTW, before I started working on my I6 I didn't know that much about cars. The six is a great way to get your feet wet and parts are very cheap!

Good luck
Brett

------------------
66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe
Laser Red 96GT Ragtop
30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!

amartin725 · 05-29-2001, 11:22 AM

Ever think about the Granada conversion? YOu could do a Granada spindle and disk brake conversion, plus take the Granada rear as well. You can 5-lug pattern, with disk brakes and an 8" or 9" rear for around $500 if you plan it right, complete.

I grabbed an 8" rear for my '65 for $100 drum to drum. I also started collecting V8 frontt end parts and you can get them reasonably if you look around. It the steering system needs to be replaced/rebuilt, then buy V8 vs. I6 components won't break you.

I'm working on a hy-brid R&P front end for my car, so I'm going another route with the front disk brakes, but I can tell you that they only cost me $275 for everything.

As far as playing with the I6, I'm a HUGE Inline fanatic. Check out CLifford Performance, but don't buy anything from them. They are a HUGE rip-off for many MANY things. They boast big HP gains from a 2bbl Weber conversion that they refuse to back up with and ##'s. Not only that, they sell the carbs for $200 more than you can get them from other sources.

You didn't say what tranny you had? T-5 upgrades can be done easily on the I6 which helps pep up things and gives you 2 more gears over the 3spd.

Upgrade the dizzy with a Duraspark II unit from a late 70's early 80's 200 or 250. Fire it with either the stock box or an MSD or Crane and then you can open up the plugs to .060 or so and gains a huge powerful spark.

The best upgrades on carbs we've found so far come from taking the 1bbls from the 80's Ford 300's and adapting them to work on the intake log. Not only are the engines choked by the integral intakes, but the carbs restrict more power as well. A later head has larger intakes and valves and is a great upgrade to the motor.

To be completely honest, these little motors stock only had about 85 Hp. Ford advertised them for 120, but that was done be putting the motor under such conditions that they will never see in the real world.

I've got plenty of advice on I6 performance tips. If anyone wants to expand on them, start a new post and I'll see what I can help with.

One guy just finished a rebuild of his 200 going hog wild with it. We figure the HP to be around 175 or so. It doesn't seem impressive until you compared it to the stock HP of 85 HP. He has gob of torque, shifts at 5500RPM, and can't gain traction in 2nd gear. These motors will really run, and run strong. They have 7 mains on the bottom end and are indestructable.

Sorry for the rant.

Al

------------------

amartin725 · 05-29-2001, 11:26 AM

Oh, I forgot to add. The power steering for these cars is pretty mushy to say the least. You'd be better off sticking with manual until someone offers a cheap power R&P conversion kit

If you have an automatic, you can upgrade to power brakes and a dual master easily. Meny people have performed the swap using readily available parts, so it's not that big of a deal.

Al

------------------

Captain Save A Hoe · 05-29-2001, 09:24 PM

Damn thanks for the info on the inline 6! Now I am really excited about upgrading that motor! Definetly looking for more permformance info on inline sixes. So as it stands now my upgrades will be the power disc brakes, upgrading the motor, and painting it.

amartin725 · 05-29-2001, 10:23 PM

Glad to see your interest peaked in the Inline! You can have some real fun, and suprise the heck out of a lot of V8 guys.

Well, my secret would come out eventually, but here's the Ford 6 Performance Site I moderate at:

http://pub41.ezboard.com/bfordsixcyl...rformanceforum

You will find that you can't open up a Summit catalog and pick out an intake, but there are certainly plenty of performance parts you can find for the inline.

Just as a tease, here are some projects we are all working on.

Here's what I started to play with, then decided on something more unique that is still in development under wraps:

http://pages.prodigy.net/al.martin/200intake5.jpg

Here's an a link to an Argentine 221 head being installed on a US 250 block.
http://www.geocities.com/jryelverton/221info.html

Here's the next generation 250 head Ford Australia developed after the integral log. It's bolted onto a US 200 block.

http://members.home.net/ricksmol/Engine_is_in.jpg

Here is a complete Australian Crosflow 250. It shares a lot of common parts with the US 250, but does not share heads and blocks. It shares more internals than anything. These Crossflows have alloy aluminum heads and easily make 220+ HP while and weigh considerably less than the 289 and 302 counterparts. This particular one is set up for MPI being driven by an SDS EFI computer. These motors will accept 4bbls, 2bbls, triple Webers, etc...

http://home.cfl.rr.com/mustangsix/installed.jpg

Now, for the real killer Ford I6 stuff. Here is an OHC, variable cam timing Ford I6/ This baby is good for 240 HP stock and makes more torque than you can imagine

http://pages.prodigy.net/al.martin/OHC.jpg

There is talk of a DOHC I6 in the works out of Australia. We are all anxious to see it.

Before you really dig into the I6, there is a book you should purchase for $14.95 called the Ford 6 Falcon Performance Handbook. It's a book Dennis and David Schjeldahl. These guys have done tremendous research on the Ford I6 and have put it into a book for all. It's probably the best $14,95 you'll ever spend. They are having problems with their website, but here's an email addy:

Dennis_Schjeldahl@fc.grand-forks.k12.nd.us

Al

------------------

[This message has been edited by amartin725 (edited 05-29-2001).]

05-28-2001, 01:32 PM	#1
Captain Save A Hoe Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 4	Newbie here - Help me spend $5K on my '66 Ok this is my first post so be gentle Back in '92 I bought a '66 Mustang Coupe 6 cylinder. It was rust free, straight, quite a looker inside and out. It was a great daily driver too while I was in high school. Anyway, I went away to college and eventually law school. The car has been garaged ever since '94. I want to turn it back to a daily driver though. Here are the things I am considering. Are there any issues I should know about? 1) install 289 V8 or maybe new Fuel Injection engine w/ dual exhaust 2) convert drum brakes to disc brakes 3) convert manual brakes to power brakes 4) convert manual steering to power steering 5) paint it black (currently white original paint) 6) install 5 lug steel wheels (currently 4 lug wheels) Are these things possible for $5K or less?

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05-28-2001, 01:41 PM	#2
Captain Save A Hoe Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 4	BTW the $5K also includes labor as I only know how to do simple things like change oil, brake pads, spark plugs etc. I'd venture to do it myself, but I am studying for the bar exam and would really like to drive this thing this summer. [This message has been edited by Captain Save A Hoe (edited 05-28-2001).]

05-28-2001, 03:15 PM	#3
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	Doing the work yourself it would be possible to do it for about 3 grand. But its going to be close if you farm the work out. Most Disc brake conversions cost about 700+ dollars, but you could do the junk yard approach. As for the engine, it would be cheaper to go ahead and just put yourself a carburated 289 or 302 in it, hell even a 351W, but with fuel injection you'll start upping the cost big time since you arent doing the work. I'm tossing around the thought of fuel injecting my 289. I'd tackle things like the brake conversion first at the same time converting everything over like the rearend since your going to put a V8 in it. Then check your budget and go from there. This is how my priorities go when it comes cars and modifying. 1. Safety (brakes, ditch that single resivior master cylinder) 2. Speed/performance 3. Handling 4. Looks ------------------ 64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. Period white wall tires. And to many others to list 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle 64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car. Mods, Rust, rust, and more rust

05-28-2001, 03:36 PM	#5
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Don't forget the rear axle. Sixes came with 7 1/2" differentials. So you're looking at a whole new drive train, front suspension, steering, exhaust, paint and body, new disk brake conversion, Trans Am Racing power brake booster and conversion plate (to go with dual chamber master cylinder for the new disks). I wouldn't even worry about conversion to power steering. '66 power steering is pretty sorry. Most folks convert power back to manual. Still pretty easy steering. In short, I don't think you can do all that for $5000. Get some books and try doing some of it yourself. '66 Ford Mustang shop Manual highly recommended. I did do most of what you mentioned and a lot more of other stuff too. Did most of the labor myself and I think I've got more than $15000 just in parts and materials. I'm not trying to discourage you, but you need a realistic budget so you don't get stuck in the middle with it only half done. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

05-28-2001, 05:29 PM	#6
Captain Save A Hoe Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 4	Thanks for the replies guys. I agree Mercury, the most important thing for me right now is upgrading the braking system. I remember when I drove this car back in high school, I would fear going down steep hills because the brakes always felt soft. I can see that swapping out the motor can bring about more issues that I am not ready to decide on like the transmission etc. (It currently has the automatic). Maybe I should just have the inline 6 rebuilt? It ran fine when I last drove it, but it felt a little underpowered to me. If I can get discs all around, power brakes, and rebuild the six with some performance mods for under $5K, I'll be a happy man. Rev, the reason I am considering power steering is because my GF has a hard time turning the wheel. I can steer it fine, but I like it when she drives me around in a nice car . But if '66 power steering is indeed lame, I'll stay clear. Power, thanks for the links...very helpful. Good luck on your first step towards a law degree. I take it you are going to start undergrad right? My advice is to savor the moment. Make sure to stud, but not too hard. You need to party too. I loved college. It was such a blast. I would not mind travelling back in time and doing college again. However, law school was pure torture. Not that it wasn't valuable. I found the instruction to be quite stimulating. It was my fellow classmates that made like hell. I went to law school on the east coast and the majority of my classmates were from ivy league colleges. The fake attitudes were so thick that one could cut it with a knife. I'd rather die than live through it again. It was a very different experience. I hear most law schools are like that. Feel free to ask for more advice though [This message has been edited by Captain Save A Hoe (edited 05-28-2001).]

05-28-2001, 05:37 PM	#7
Power Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Oregon Posts: 420	I studied music theory and composition for 2 years before joining the army, so I remember the fun college days. If you hang around this board I'm sure in about a year I'll have tons of questions for you. As for the I6 being underpowered, I'm not an expert on the "6" but if I remember right it was underpowered for the size of the car. I could be wrong though.... You could have it rebuilt and it might do ok for now.

05-28-2001, 07:05 PM	#8
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Stainless Steel Brakes Corp. makes a 4 lug disk conversion. They still use the fruit jar master cylinder for the power brake set up though, I believe. You can get rebuilt control valves and power steering pumps if that's what you need. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

05-29-2001, 01:40 AM	#9
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	If your going to do the disk brake conversion, you should go ahead and convert the car over to five lug, change the rear axle out to a 8 inch or 9 inch if you can find it. I believe (I could possibly be wrong) the front suspension is the same except for the springs. One problem area might be since your keeping the straight six and tranny in there, but may be changing the rear axle out is the Drive shaft will need to be shortened. I'm not sure about the dimensions of the 7.5 alxe, havent worked on many of them (even though my little 6 has one) Thats nothing expensive though, and any machine shop should be able to handle the task. ------------------ 64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. Period white wall tires. And to many others to list 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle 64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car. Mods, Rust, rust, and more rust

05-29-2001, 02:46 AM	#10
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	You can build a screaming inline Six. Clifford Perf parts specializes in InLine sixes. Everything from High performance cams to heads, headers, 4 barrel setups. My friends uncle is builing a 68 Chevelle station wagon for drag racing. He's using an inline six. He had a Chevy II wagon with a six that blistered the quarter mile. You'd be surprised how strong those engines are. They can take some major abuse.

05-29-2001, 08:32 AM	#11
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	Here's my two cents. I would say if you are going to go through the troubles of a swap, just start with a V8 car instead. That way money spent will be to improve on the V8 instead of converting everything. $5,000 will go a little farther on an I6 and with the lighter weight up front you can have an excellent handling car. I may seem a little biased towards the sixes as my 66 has one, but I just think they are cool little engines that are often overlooked. Like Mercury said, Clifford Perf. can really wake those engines up. The choice is yours but I would say keep the six and dress it up. You'll have a good paying job soon enough and you can just buy a cherry 289 Stang and have the best of both worlds BTW, before I started working on my I6 I didn't know that much about cars. The six is a great way to get your feet wet and parts are very cheap! Good luck Brett ------------------ 66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe Laser Red 96GT Ragtop 30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!

05-29-2001, 11:22 AM	#12
amartin725 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 46	Ever think about the Granada conversion? YOu could do a Granada spindle and disk brake conversion, plus take the Granada rear as well. You can 5-lug pattern, with disk brakes and an 8" or 9" rear for around $500 if you plan it right, complete. I grabbed an 8" rear for my '65 for $100 drum to drum. I also started collecting V8 frontt end parts and you can get them reasonably if you look around. It the steering system needs to be replaced/rebuilt, then buy V8 vs. I6 components won't break you. I'm working on a hy-brid R&P front end for my car, so I'm going another route with the front disk brakes, but I can tell you that they only cost me $275 for everything. As far as playing with the I6, I'm a HUGE Inline fanatic. Check out CLifford Performance, but don't buy anything from them. They are a HUGE rip-off for many MANY things. They boast big HP gains from a 2bbl Weber conversion that they refuse to back up with and ##'s. Not only that, they sell the carbs for $200 more than you can get them from other sources. You didn't say what tranny you had? T-5 upgrades can be done easily on the I6 which helps pep up things and gives you 2 more gears over the 3spd. Upgrade the dizzy with a Duraspark II unit from a late 70's early 80's 200 or 250. Fire it with either the stock box or an MSD or Crane and then you can open up the plugs to .060 or so and gains a huge powerful spark. The best upgrades on carbs we've found so far come from taking the 1bbls from the 80's Ford 300's and adapting them to work on the intake log. Not only are the engines choked by the integral intakes, but the carbs restrict more power as well. A later head has larger intakes and valves and is a great upgrade to the motor. To be completely honest, these little motors stock only had about 85 Hp. Ford advertised them for 120, but that was done be putting the motor under such conditions that they will never see in the real world. I've got plenty of advice on I6 performance tips. If anyone wants to expand on them, start a new post and I'll see what I can help with. One guy just finished a rebuild of his 200 going hog wild with it. We figure the HP to be around 175 or so. It doesn't seem impressive until you compared it to the stock HP of 85 HP. He has gob of torque, shifts at 5500RPM, and can't gain traction in 2nd gear. These motors will really run, and run strong. They have 7 mains on the bottom end and are indestructable. Sorry for the rant. Al ------------------

05-29-2001, 11:26 AM	#13
amartin725 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 46	Oh, I forgot to add. The power steering for these cars is pretty mushy to say the least. You'd be better off sticking with manual until someone offers a cheap power R&P conversion kit If you have an automatic, you can upgrade to power brakes and a dual master easily. Meny people have performed the swap using readily available parts, so it's not that big of a deal. Al ------------------

05-29-2001, 09:24 PM	#14
Captain Save A Hoe Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 4	Damn thanks for the info on the inline 6! Now I am really excited about upgrading that motor! Definetly looking for more permformance info on inline sixes. So as it stands now my upgrades will be the power disc brakes, upgrading the motor, and painting it.

05-29-2001, 10:23 PM	#15
amartin725 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 46	Glad to see your interest peaked in the Inline! You can have some real fun, and suprise the heck out of a lot of V8 guys. Well, my secret would come out eventually, but here's the Ford 6 Performance Site I moderate at: http://pub41.ezboard.com/bfordsixcyl...rformanceforum You will find that you can't open up a Summit catalog and pick out an intake, but there are certainly plenty of performance parts you can find for the inline. Just as a tease, here are some projects we are all working on. Here's what I started to play with, then decided on something more unique that is still in development under wraps: http://pages.prodigy.net/al.martin/200intake5.jpg Here's an a link to an Argentine 221 head being installed on a US 250 block. http://www.geocities.com/jryelverton/221info.html Here's the next generation 250 head Ford Australia developed after the integral log. It's bolted onto a US 200 block. http://members.home.net/ricksmol/Engine_is_in.jpg Here is a complete Australian Crosflow 250. It shares a lot of common parts with the US 250, but does not share heads and blocks. It shares more internals than anything. These Crossflows have alloy aluminum heads and easily make 220+ HP while and weigh considerably less than the 289 and 302 counterparts. This particular one is set up for MPI being driven by an SDS EFI computer. These motors will accept 4bbls, 2bbls, triple Webers, etc... http://home.cfl.rr.com/mustangsix/installed.jpg Now, for the real killer Ford I6 stuff. Here is an OHC, variable cam timing Ford I6/ This baby is good for 240 HP stock and makes more torque than you can imagine http://pages.prodigy.net/al.martin/OHC.jpg There is talk of a DOHC I6 in the works out of Australia. We are all anxious to see it. Before you really dig into the I6, there is a book you should purchase for $14.95 called the Ford 6 Falcon Performance Handbook. It's a book Dennis and David Schjeldahl. These guys have done tremendous research on the Ford I6 and have put it into a book for all. It's probably the best $14,95 you'll ever spend. They are having problems with their website, but here's an email addy: Dennis_Schjeldahl@fc.grand-forks.k12.nd.us Al ------------------ [This message has been edited by amartin725 (edited 05-29-2001).]