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Old 11-17-2001, 10:58 PM   #1
fiveohpatrol
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Default Flowmaster drone gone with dumps? how?

well today i wanted a little more sound out of my car so i cut the tailpipes off and put turndowns down and at an angle away from the center of the car. all i have to say is i dont think i'll ever put the tailpipes back on again

another thing, i was out driving a little bit ago and noticed that the flowmaster 2000-2200rpm drone was almost nonexistent. has this happened to your guys' cars too? it seems like if anything, it has moved the drone down below 1500 rpm, which is great because i normally cruise on the highway to and from school alot with it right around the normal drone rpm

i thought that the dumps were gonna give me more of a headache inside the car, but with the windows up on the highway its not much louder, if any

just thought i would share, later guys
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Old 11-17-2001, 11:11 PM   #2
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Yep, I've had a friend put dumps on with the same result.
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Old 11-18-2001, 12:58 AM   #3
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man, every since i got my car, ive been torn between do i weld on some dumps, or keep my stainless pipes, im really tempted to install the dumps,i love the way they sound, but like the way my pipes look. where are yours located? i have a few friends of mine that have dump attached to the mufler just before the rear axle, i wasnt sure what the law is for the pipe cut off, but with an off road h-pipe, i guess i have nothing to loose
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Old 11-18-2001, 01:28 AM   #4
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Default hey bosco

You could cut off the stainless pipes but leave them hanging, just attach them to not move. And then go with the dumps in front of the axle. Your stainless pipes will look shinier a lot longer. But inspection time might be a problem for you. I have an older car and doesn't require the rectal probing that those emmission regulated cars do. I have gotten to know the local repair shop owner and just drive my car in give him the money and he puts a new sticker in my window without ever looking under the hood, sitting in it or anything. Having to crawl under the car to put the exhaust probe to inspect a car would piss me off a little, those people aren't always the nicest especially when in a hurry.
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Old 11-18-2001, 01:29 AM   #5
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i went the cheap route and got some generic non-mandrel bent pipe from Meijer thats about 10" long and has about a 45 degree bend in it, the other end has a 2.5" ID so it can slip over my 2.5" muffler outlet pipe (about $2.50 each)

they are as close to the muffler as possible to clear the rearend,
and i have them on with muffler clamps so they will come off fairly easily just incase i want to put the pipes back on

i hear ya on the looks of the tailpipes, especially with an LX, kinda looks like a 4cyl, but then again not too many 4cyl's have 275/50 15s stuffed under them
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Old 11-18-2001, 01:44 AM   #6
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I had the turn-down pipes made a month after i got the car. I did the same thing you did fiveohpatrol, i went to the local exhaust shop, had them make me some just like your, and theyve been sitting around in my trunk every since, about 9 months. there actually 3 inch pipes, about 10 inches long, real low profile cut, i have a friend with dumps that hang down a bout 2 inches, im waiting for them to get caught on a speed bump and rip his exhaust system out . What are the laws about the pipe, i dont know if its different for different states, but i heard that the pipe has to exit from under the car, what if i welded them at angle pointing outward, will that get by
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Old 11-18-2001, 02:03 AM   #7
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exhaust laws change from state to state, luckily we dont have any exhaust laws that are enforced here (knock on wood)

i have mine pointed the way you describe, angled pointing outward and down
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Old 11-18-2001, 07:09 PM   #8
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Someone haves a few pics of a good n nice set up of flow dumps???
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Old 11-19-2001, 11:46 AM   #9
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Any of you that are getting rid of stainless pipes let me know. My tips are rusted and look terrible.

Hey Drew, guess what. I may be getting the Notchback in Tennessee AND the one in Illinois. I think I almost have my wife talked into it. The one in Illinois has the 351 in it and all the parts I would need to fix up the Notch I'm getting from Tennessee so i could leave my hatch together. If I did that then I'd have to get the doner car ripped apart quick and get rid of it so my yard didn't look like a junk yard LOL. Want to help?
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"The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance."
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Old 11-19-2001, 02:06 PM   #10
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sure, and if i do you could swap me upper intakes, you know how that explorer upper looks MUCH better than your ugly GT40 i'd just be doing you a favor

yah let me know when you get them, i'll have to come check them out, does either one of them have good quarter window molding? mine are shot and are making the rest of the car look like crap, later
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Old 11-19-2001, 02:27 PM   #11
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I'm not sure since I haven't seen either car. Well I did see the Illinois car, but all the glass was removed from it.

Well, I got the wife convinced! If I can get the car in Illinois for $2000 it's mine.

Then I'd only have $2500 in a Notch with these mods:

351W, 75mm Pro-M bullet, 75mm Edelbrock TB, 30lb injectors, Edelbrock Performer intake, Lunatti cam, roller rockers, MAC shorty headers, Bassani X-pipe, Dynomax cat-back (stainless), new T-5 with Hurst shifter, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, Lakewood shatter proof bell housing, 3.73 gears, etc. Engine and trans have 15,000 miles on them since new. Also comes with two front bumper covers (my hatch needs a new one), two sets of head lights and tail lights, a set of doors and fenders, brand new deck lid, and a 4" Cowl hood.

Pretty sweet deal huh?
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"The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance."
Griggs Racing


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