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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: germantown MD
Posts: 283
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![]() Personally I think that power adders are cheating when you have done little else to an engine. But somebody once told me that in the world of racing there are cheaters and there are losers.
My question is about the durability of motors that on the bottle. Nitrous is something new to me, I haven't really studied how it works. It seems logical to me that if you are going to run a 150hp shot then you are putting that much more strain on your motor. I know that retarding the timing will be necsary for nitrous to work the best. What are some common mistakes that people make when using nitrous. What damge can it cause. What do you have to do to motor so that you can spray nitrous often with the least damage. What is the proper or best way to set this up.
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85 GT 4bbl roller cam 2 ch. Flowmasters, O/R H-pipe Performer intake and carb milodon water pump, FMS 9mm wires, aluminum driveshaft, king cobra clutch |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Plymouth, MI
Posts: 254
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![]() I would think that cheating, by definition, is breaking some pre-defined set of rules. Unless you're racing in a sanctioned competition that prohibits the use of nitrous oxide, it's not cheating. It has always been regarded as a great bang for the buck, and with good reason. If your budget and time don't permit extensive engine modifications, nitrous oxide allows you a significant horsepower gain quickly and inexpensively. It also allows your engine to behave in a stock fashion when N2O is not in use. Just my $.02.
Nitrous use does raise cylinder temperatures, however, it is manageable by retarding ignition timing, and increasing fuel octane. Generally, you'll want to use premium unleaded for a street car, or perhaps race gas at the track. A rule of thumb is 1 degree of timing retard for every 25hp of N2O. The most common mistakes are usually lack of timing retard, failures of the fuel and ignition systems, faulty wiring, and greed. Before using nitrous, make sure your ignition and fuel systems are adequate. New spark plugs (not platinum), check your wires, cap and rotor, ignition coil, fuel filter, fuel pump, etc. If there are any weaknesses in those areas, N2O tends to expose them quickly. Other than that, if your engine doesn't burn oil, and you have good ring and valve seal, there shouldn't be a problem. I have seen plenty of engines with 100,000+ miles on them run nitrous without difficulty. If you would like more information, please have a look at the info site in my sig, or feel free to email me anytime. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Staging lane
Posts: 4,337
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![]() [QUOTE]Originally posted by Moxie
[B]I would think that cheating, by definition, is breaking some pre-defined set of rules. Unless you're racing in a sanctioned competition that prohibits the use of nitrous oxide, it's not cheating. It has always been regarded as a great bang for the buck, and with good reason. If your budget and time don't permit extensive engine modifications, nitrous oxide allows you a significant horsepower gain quickly and inexpensively. It also allows your engine to behave in a stock fashion when N2O is not in use. Just my $.02. It is tempting to say......."That guy cheated"......If you are spanking a guy by 2 car lengths and then he hits the juice and spanks your @ss, but every time I catch myself about to say that I remind myself of "exgmguys" saying of RUN WHAT YA" BRUNG!!!! ![]()
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Sanford NC USA
Posts: 155
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![]() one thing i have found is running to hot of PLUG and to high of timing.. causing a HOLE to burn in the piston. my blk car had 130,000 miles and it was sprayed a bottle a weekend I dint go uptown without a FULL CAN. haha
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88 Hatch 10.60's @ 130 89 Hatch Not as fast but holds its own |
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#5 | |
Tubbed and Juiced
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,861
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Utica, Michigan
Posts: 2,631
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![]() Run whatcha brung.
![]() The best advise I can give if you are not so well versed in the nitrous bible, is to keep the car in good tune, run good gas, knock back the timing a couple degrees and stick with a small shot until you know what you are doing.
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1988 Mustang GT stock bottom 302, C4 10.9 @ 128 with 8 psi of Novi 1000 boost!----STOLEN 1989 Mustang notchback Warmed up 306 with a Procharger. |
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#7 |
347ci of HORSE POWER!!!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,416
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![]() Yeah, I was thinking about getting a 125 shot on my pony. Currently I have stock heads and cam. I will soon enough get new aluminium heads and a Lunati cam. I have MSD everything!!!!! so my ignition is set. Can I run a 125 shot on my stock heads right now or should I wait until I get my new heads in?
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Walker, MI, USA
Posts: 1,202
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![]() 125 to 150 is all right on your car go for it the heads will be fine But make sure you have the Fuel you need a take Timming out of the car when running it And IF I was you I would get 93 gas and Run Booster to But that is me.....
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Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm |
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#9 |
347ci of HORSE POWER!!!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,416
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![]() I have a 190lph fuel pump, and an adjustiable fuel reg. I only use 93 octane in my pony. When I do get my NOS, I am going to get an MSD retard device for it. What kind do you recomend?
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Utica, Michigan
Posts: 2,631
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![]() I know this is not good advise, but I spray 150, and keep my timing set at 15 degrees. No retard.
Aluminum heads help a lot.
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1988 Mustang GT stock bottom 302, C4 10.9 @ 128 with 8 psi of Novi 1000 boost!----STOLEN 1989 Mustang notchback Warmed up 306 with a Procharger. |
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#11 |
Sniffed too much n20
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Ont, Canada
Posts: 1,018
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![]() I run a 125hp shot with a 190lph pump, 24lbers, AFPR, and aluminum heads. I keep my timing at 12 degrees and run one step colder plugs. I've also got an Accel ignition system, and distributor, all in all, just to be safe. Had about 6 bottles worth through it this summer, and have around 40,000kms on the motor without any problems.
Exgmguy is absolutely right tho, to get away with more timing, aluminum heads are the ticket. Even though I must say 15 with a 150 shot would scare me a little, its all in the state of tune, ie. good gas, plugs, ignition etc.. |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Augusta, MI
Posts: 24
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![]() Yeah, if your not driving a high-mile oilburner, you should be able to get away w/ 150 hp shot on a stock lower end. What you'll need is a dedicated fuel system, a good aftermarket ignition w/ ignition retard, and a realistic point of view. A point of interest is that comp cams makes a nitrous-particular cam to optimize nitrous use. Maybe you should look into one, comp says they net you a bit more power than with the same set up except for a different cam. Just a thought.
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sleepers have more fun (That's a stock intake, really.) |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Utica, Michigan
Posts: 2,631
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![]() If you are burning a lot of oil you will detonate severely. Oil knocks the octane rating of gas down a lot.
This past summer at the track I melted the tips completely off of 3 plugs because my lower intake gasket started to leak oil into the cylinders. Ouch. ![]()
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1988 Mustang GT stock bottom 302, C4 10.9 @ 128 with 8 psi of Novi 1000 boost!----STOLEN 1989 Mustang notchback Warmed up 306 with a Procharger. |
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