Starting Problems

bigred90gt · 12-13-2002, 12:34 PM

When I start the car, the starter sounds screwed. It almost sounds like it is missing gears on the flywheel and then catching, over and over again until it starts. Once it is warmed up, I get nothing when I turn the key to crank it, for at least a couple of tries. Then it finally turns over, and sounds the same as the cold start. I replace the starter 2 days ago, thinking that was the problem, and it is still there. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Caymon

bigred90gt · 12-15-2002, 11:19 PM

Anybody???

PKRWUD · 12-16-2002, 06:20 AM

I'm having trouble understanding your description.

Have you checked to make sure the teeth on the flywheel are all good? Are you sure you have the correct starter?

bigred90gt · 12-16-2002, 10:41 AM

I have not checked the flywheel yet. The starter appears to be the same as the one that was on it already. I just started having this problem out of the blue a couple of weeks ago. I figured that it was just time to change the starter. So I did, and it didn't help at all. I don't think it is the flywheel because sometimes it (the starter) does ablolutely nothing when I turn the key. All the usual dash lights come on and the fuel pump primes, but it does nothing when you turn the key all the way over. Doesn't even make an attempt to start. When it does filally start, it almost sounds like the power to the starter is cutting in and out. How can you test the solenoid and/or a relay? Do they have a relay or just the solenoid? I apologize for the vague description, I don't know any other way to describe it. Thanks.
Caymon

PKRWUD · 12-16-2002, 02:08 PM

Actually, that was a much better description.

it sounds to me like it's your clutch switch. Next time it "does nothing", make sure it's in neutral, and while holding the key in the start position, pump the clutch pedal rapidly, even side-stepping it if necessary, and see if it starts to catch at all. If it does, the problem is with the clutch switch, and it either needs to be adjusted or replaced (more than likely replaced).

Take care,
~Chris

bigred90gt · 12-16-2002, 04:00 PM

Thanks Chris. I'll post the results tomorrow when I get back to work. I have no internet connection at home. I's just po white trash!!!

Caymon

BTW, what exactly is side-stepping the clutch pedal?

PKRWUD · 12-16-2002, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigred90gt
BTW, what exactly is side-stepping the clutch pedal?

Popping the clutch. With the pedal depressed, move your foot to the side to release the pedal, rather than backing your foot off. If it is the switch, this jolting action may cause the switch to work just long enough to make the starter begin to crank. If it does, you know the switch is bad.

bigred90gt · 12-17-2002, 10:05 AM

I did exactly what you said and I think it is the switch. I tried to find it and couldn't. I thought I did, and unplugged whatever it was, and it still cranked. I looked it up in the Chiltons, but it doesn't tell you where it is. There is a little something mounted next to the quadrant, but that's what I already unplugged. If anyone knows where it is, please enllighten me. Also, colors on the wires souldn't hurt. Thanks for the help.
Caymon

PKRWUD · 12-17-2002, 12:38 PM

It should be at the very top of the clutch pedal.

bigred90gt · 12-17-2002, 02:03 PM

The only thing I saw at the top of the clutch pedal was a grey plug with a (plastic) rod going through the back side. There was a peice of something around the rod about 1" from the free end. As you depress the clutch pedal, the free end of the "rod" would move in toward the plug, as though the pedal were pulling it. When you let off the pedal, it would come back out. On the other side of the plug, there were two plugs plugged into it. I couldn't get a very good look at it because of the back wrenching position I was in. Correct me if I am wrong, but, the clutch switch should only have 2 wires coming to and from it right? Can't you bypass the switch instead of replacing it? I'm sorry for the description, but that is the best I can do without a digital camera. The other plug I was talking about was on near the clutch quadrant above the gas pedal.

PKRWUD · 12-17-2002, 03:58 PM

That's the right switch. There were minor changes over the years, but it should have one electrical connector with 3 wires going into it. All 3 wires will probably be red with a light blue or white tracer. Two wires will go to one side, and one wire to the other. Splice all 3 wires together to bypass the switch permanently.

Take care,
~Chris

bigred90gt · 12-17-2002, 04:34 PM

Thanks so much. I'll check it out and let you know what happens. Do me a favor and check this out and let me know what you think please. Thanks again for the help.
Caymon

bigred90gt · 12-17-2002, 11:02 PM

Icut the plug off and put all three wires together with a wirenut, and it is doing the same thing. Do you think it could be the solenoid? Thats the only other thing I can think of. Thanks for the suggestions.

Caymon

PKRWUD · 12-18-2002, 10:26 AM

Not really. That's not what happens when a solenoid goes bad. What about the ignition switch?

You said you did exactly what I told you, and you thought it was the clutch switch. Why? What happened when you did what I told you to (pumping the pedal)?

bigred90gt · 12-18-2002, 12:32 PM

When I was pumping the cluthc, after a couple of times, it would catch and turn over. When it would turn over, it would still sometimes sound like the power was going in and out, and sometimes it sounds like it is grinding almost., and sometimes it would sound like it should. I'm at a loss for words. I still have my truck to drive, but I don't want to get into the staging lanes at the track and not be able to start my car. If there's anything else you can think of, please throw it out there. I'm up for any suggestions right now. Thanks for the help.

Caymon

Agent_4573 · 12-18-2002, 12:39 PM

battery terminals tight and clean?

bigred90gt · 12-18-2002, 01:21 PM

Yep. That's one of the first things I looked at. Thanks though. I have been known to do things like that in the past.
Caymon

PKRWUD · 12-18-2002, 04:36 PM

Do this:

Attach the alligator clip end of your test light to the little wire that goes to the solenoid (unplug it from the solenoid), and wedge the pointer tip of the test light against the negative battery post.

Now try and start the car, but watch the test light. It won't make any noise at all, let alone start, but we don't care right now.

If everything inside your car is working properly, the test light will light up every time the key is in the start position. It should be as smooth as a household light switch. If it is, then replace the solenoid, if it flickers, or doesn't light up, it's in the ignition switch.

Take care,
~Chris

bigred90gt · 12-18-2002, 05:56 PM

Thanks. I'll check it out and get back with you probably first thing in the morning when I get to work.
Caymon

bigred90gt · 12-19-2002, 10:23 AM

So I tried what you said and here's how it went. The first 4 or 5 times it came on flawlessly. The next time or two it came on great and then started flickering. When it was flickering, I could hear what almost sounded like a relay clicking, with every flicker, under the dash. The next couple of times, I got no light. Then it was random. Sometimes perfect, sometimes flicker, sometimes nothing.

What do you think? Thanks for the suggestion.
Caymon

12-13-2002, 12:34 PM	#1
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Starting Problems When I start the car, the starter sounds screwed. It almost sounds like it is missing gears on the flywheel and then catching, over and over again until it starts. Once it is warmed up, I get nothing when I turn the key to crank it, for at least a couple of tries. Then it finally turns over, and sounds the same as the cold start. I replace the starter 2 days ago, thinking that was the problem, and it is still there. Any suggestions? Thanks. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-15-2002, 11:19 PM	#2
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Anybody??? __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-16-2002, 06:20 AM	#3
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I'm having trouble understanding your description. Have you checked to make sure the teeth on the flywheel are all good? Are you sure you have the correct starter? __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

12-16-2002, 10:41 AM	#4
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	I have not checked the flywheel yet. The starter appears to be the same as the one that was on it already. I just started having this problem out of the blue a couple of weeks ago. I figured that it was just time to change the starter. So I did, and it didn't help at all. I don't think it is the flywheel because sometimes it (the starter) does ablolutely nothing when I turn the key. All the usual dash lights come on and the fuel pump primes, but it does nothing when you turn the key all the way over. Doesn't even make an attempt to start. When it does filally start, it almost sounds like the power to the starter is cutting in and out. How can you test the solenoid and/or a relay? Do they have a relay or just the solenoid? I apologize for the vague description, I don't know any other way to describe it. Thanks. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-16-2002, 02:08 PM	#5
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Actually, that was a much better description. it sounds to me like it's your clutch switch. Next time it "does nothing", make sure it's in neutral, and while holding the key in the start position, pump the clutch pedal rapidly, even side-stepping it if necessary, and see if it starts to catch at all. If it does, the problem is with the clutch switch, and it either needs to be adjusted or replaced (more than likely replaced). Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

12-16-2002, 04:00 PM	#6
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Thanks Chris. I'll post the results tomorrow when I get back to work. I have no internet connection at home. I's just po white trash!!! Caymon BTW, what exactly is side-stepping the clutch pedal? __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-17-2002, 10:05 AM	#8
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	I did exactly what you said and I think it is the switch. I tried to find it and couldn't. I thought I did, and unplugged whatever it was, and it still cranked. I looked it up in the Chiltons, but it doesn't tell you where it is. There is a little something mounted next to the quadrant, but that's what I already unplugged. If anyone knows where it is, please enllighten me. Also, colors on the wires souldn't hurt. Thanks for the help. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-17-2002, 12:38 PM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	It should be at the very top of the clutch pedal. __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

12-17-2002, 02:03 PM	#10
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	The only thing I saw at the top of the clutch pedal was a grey plug with a (plastic) rod going through the back side. There was a peice of something around the rod about 1" from the free end. As you depress the clutch pedal, the free end of the "rod" would move in toward the plug, as though the pedal were pulling it. When you let off the pedal, it would come back out. On the other side of the plug, there were two plugs plugged into it. I couldn't get a very good look at it because of the back wrenching position I was in. Correct me if I am wrong, but, the clutch switch should only have 2 wires coming to and from it right? Can't you bypass the switch instead of replacing it? I'm sorry for the description, but that is the best I can do without a digital camera. The other plug I was talking about was on near the clutch quadrant above the gas pedal. __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-17-2002, 03:58 PM	#11
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	That's the right switch. There were minor changes over the years, but it should have one electrical connector with 3 wires going into it. All 3 wires will probably be red with a light blue or white tracer. Two wires will go to one side, and one wire to the other. Splice all 3 wires together to bypass the switch permanently. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

12-17-2002, 04:34 PM	#12
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Thanks so much. I'll check it out and let you know what happens. Do me a favor and check this out and let me know what you think please. Thanks again for the help. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-17-2002, 11:02 PM	#13
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Icut the plug off and put all three wires together with a wirenut, and it is doing the same thing. Do you think it could be the solenoid? Thats the only other thing I can think of. Thanks for the suggestions. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-18-2002, 10:26 AM	#14
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Not really. That's not what happens when a solenoid goes bad. What about the ignition switch? You said you did exactly what I told you, and you thought it was the clutch switch. Why? What happened when you did what I told you to (pumping the pedal)? __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

12-18-2002, 12:32 PM	#15
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	When I was pumping the cluthc, after a couple of times, it would catch and turn over. When it would turn over, it would still sometimes sound like the power was going in and out, and sometimes it sounds like it is grinding almost., and sometimes it would sound like it should. I'm at a loss for words. I still have my truck to drive, but I don't want to get into the staging lanes at the track and not be able to start my car. If there's anything else you can think of, please throw it out there. I'm up for any suggestions right now. Thanks for the help. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-18-2002, 12:39 PM	#16
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	battery terminals tight and clean? __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

12-18-2002, 01:21 PM	#17
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Yep. That's one of the first things I looked at. Thanks though. I have been known to do things like that in the past. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-18-2002, 04:36 PM	#18
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Do this: Attach the alligator clip end of your test light to the little wire that goes to the solenoid (unplug it from the solenoid), and wedge the pointer tip of the test light against the negative battery post. Now try and start the car, but watch the test light. It won't make any noise at all, let alone start, but we don't care right now. If everything inside your car is working properly, the test light will light up every time the key is in the start position. It should be as smooth as a household light switch. If it is, then replace the solenoid, if it flickers, or doesn't light up, it's in the ignition switch. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

12-18-2002, 05:56 PM	#19
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	Thanks. I'll check it out and get back with you probably first thing in the morning when I get to work. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

12-19-2002, 10:23 AM	#20
bigred90gt 2 Stangs in the Stable Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 1,209	So I tried what you said and here's how it went. The first 4 or 5 times it came on flawlessly. The next time or two it came on great and then started flickering. When it was flickering, I could hear what almost sounded like a relay clicking, with every flicker, under the dash. The next couple of times, I got no light. Then it was random. Sometimes perfect, sometimes flicker, sometimes nothing. What do you think? Thanks for the suggestion. Caymon __________________ '90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128

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