Runs hot in traffic!!!

NO SLO PK · 10-02-2001, 09:06 PM

Okay I've tried most everything and she still wants to heat up in stop'n go traffic. Any ideas? I'm listing what I've done to the cooling sytem:

Central Coast Mustang aluminum radiator
Flow Kooler water pump
Hi flow 160 thermostat
Water Wetter
Special Service thermal fan clutch

I'm out of ideas. Anyone?

See my sig for mods.

Thanks

------------------
Russ L
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

Skyman · 10-02-2001, 09:09 PM

How hot is it running? The stock gauges are **** !

But since your in california and all. Go with 90/10 water/coolant, with the water wetter. Then get a high flow electric fan. That will give you more fan speed at those low rpms. That fixed my problem when I had this.

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

NO SLO PK · 10-02-2001, 09:29 PM

Hey Sky, good hearing from you.

How hot does the engine get? In extended traffic, the needle will almost touch red at which point I pull over and shut down.

I'm looking into the electric fan idea, but the blower leaves only 3.5" of clearance from the radiator.

I think I will drain the cooling system and do the 90/10 mix idea.

Any other ideas?

------------------
Russ L
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

Skyman · 10-02-2001, 11:49 PM

I have a 3 core brass radiator.

Usually the car stays right on the A at all times. In 100degree and above weather in slow or stopped traffic it will creep up between the M and the A and at most up to the M, but never any higher.

I have a manual switch to turn it on and off
I just shut it off on the freeway usually, unless its uphill.

I think the PermaCool 16" fan may clear, it stays very close to the radiator. Thats what I have $88bux from JEGS.

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

PKRWUD · 10-03-2001, 03:20 AM

Your 160 degree t-stat isn't allowing the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to transfer heat. The coolant needs to absorb the heat from the engine, then go hang out in the radiator long enough to release it. At 160 degrees, your t-stat will be completely open before the engine is even warmed up, which means it's just going to get hotter and hotter. I would try an OEM Ford 180 degree t-stat. Also, have your cap pressure tested. They're not good for more than 4 years, and once they start losing pressure, your boiling point drops. I would pick up a new 15 or 16 pound cap, replace the t-stat, and install a 90/10 mix like Sky recommended. If I'm right, your a happy man. If I'm wrong, you're out $15 bucks, but have a little piece of mind. I bet I'm right, though.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

PKRWUD · 10-03-2001, 03:22 AM

Also, if you haven't already, install a set of mechanical gauges. The factory ones aren't reliable.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

NO SLO PK · 10-03-2001, 08:58 AM

Hey Chris, as I am desperate I'll try your idea although I have to admit I am skeptical. I've used a Moroso flow restrictor which I found cools better in traffic that a T-stat. The down side to a restrictor is that it takes too long for the engine to come to operating temp. I figured the 160 high-flow was a compromise between a stock 180 and a flow restrictor.

I have a buddy with a Supercoupe that had overheating problems due to a faulty ACT sensor. I'm hoping it's something that simple in my case.

------------------
Russ L
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

PKRWUD · 10-03-2001, 01:51 PM

Does the radiator ever overflow? Try a new cap first. Buy a Stant (I know their t-stats suck, but their lever rad caps are good) 16 pound lever pressure release radiator cap (with the red release valve). Try that first.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

NO SLO PK · 10-03-2001, 11:54 PM

Hey Chris, I'm using a Stant 18 lb. cap. The radiator only overflows after extended driving in the superhot range.

PKRWUD · 10-04-2001, 10:22 AM

Well, if the cap is still holding 18 pounds, that means the coolant isn't dissapating any heat in the radiator. I still believe it's because it doesn't stay there long enough. If you still have the fan shroud, you might want to eliminate the fan clutch. You shouldn't have to, but doing so would help cool it. How long after starting, during regular driving, does it get hot?

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

302 LX Eric · 10-04-2001, 10:30 AM

I agree with Chris. I don't think the coolant is staying in the radiator long enough - it just keeps cycling and getting hotter and hotter. Try a 180* and maybe even spend the $45 on a nice Autometer mechanical temp gauge. It is unreal how well these gauges work. When the termostat opens, I can watch the needle on the gauge go from 185-190* to 175 or so. Kinda cool.

Good luck with the cooling issue and let us know how it turns out.

FYI - my stock temp gauge never seemd to move at all! Always dead in the middle of normal.

E

------------------
1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 38,000 miles

13.17 @ 106.14 mph w/ 2.138 60'

Skyman · 10-04-2001, 11:53 AM

Electric fan.

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

NO SLO PK · 10-08-2001, 12:25 AM

Okay, I'm going to try that 180 t-stat and see what happens.

Sky, I just ordered me a dual electric fan setup, which will clear the blower pulley.

The mechanical temp gauge is a good idea. I just need somewhere to mount it. The dual gauge pod will already be occupied with the boost and fuel press. gauges.

10-02-2001, 09:06 PM	#1
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Runs hot in traffic!!! Okay I've tried most everything and she still wants to heat up in stop'n go traffic. Any ideas? I'm listing what I've done to the cooling sytem: Central Coast Mustang aluminum radiator Flow Kooler water pump Hi flow 160 thermostat Water Wetter Special Service thermal fan clutch I'm out of ideas. Anyone? See my sig for mods. Thanks ------------------ Russ L '91 LX Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

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10-02-2001, 09:09 PM	#2
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	How hot is it running? The stock gauges are ** ! But since your in california and all. Go with 90/10 water/coolant, with the water wetter. Then get a high flow electric fan. That will give you more fan speed at those low rpms. That fixed my problem when I had this. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor 332RWHP, 350rwtq**

10-02-2001, 09:29 PM	#3
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Hey Sky, good hearing from you. How hot does the engine get? In extended traffic, the needle will almost touch red at which point I pull over and shut down. I'm looking into the electric fan idea, but the blower leaves only 3.5" of clearance from the radiator. I think I will drain the cooling system and do the 90/10 mix idea. Any other ideas? ------------------ Russ L '91 LX Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

10-02-2001, 11:49 PM	#4
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	I have a 3 core brass radiator. Usually the car stays right on the A at all times. In 100degree and above weather in slow or stopped traffic it will creep up between the M and the A and at most up to the M, but never any higher. I have a manual switch to turn it on and off I just shut it off on the freeway usually, unless its uphill. I think the PermaCool 16" fan may clear, it stays very close to the radiator. Thats what I have $88bux from JEGS. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor *332RWHP, 350rwtq*

10-03-2001, 03:20 AM	#5
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Your 160 degree t-stat isn't allowing the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to transfer heat. The coolant needs to absorb the heat from the engine, then go hang out in the radiator long enough to release it. At 160 degrees, your t-stat will be completely open before the engine is even warmed up, which means it's just going to get hotter and hotter. I would try an OEM Ford 180 degree t-stat. Also, have your cap pressure tested. They're not good for more than 4 years, and once they start losing pressure, your boiling point drops. I would pick up a new 15 or 16 pound cap, replace the t-stat, and install a 90/10 mix like Sky recommended. If I'm right, your a happy man. If I'm wrong, you're out $15 bucks, but have a little piece of mind. I bet I'm right, though. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

10-03-2001, 03:22 AM	#6
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Also, if you haven't already, install a set of mechanical gauges. The factory ones aren't reliable. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

10-03-2001, 08:58 AM	#7
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Hey Chris, as I am desperate I'll try your idea although I have to admit I am skeptical. I've used a Moroso flow restrictor which I found cools better in traffic that a T-stat. The down side to a restrictor is that it takes too long for the engine to come to operating temp. I figured the 160 high-flow was a compromise between a stock 180 and a flow restrictor. I have a buddy with a Supercoupe that had overheating problems due to a faulty ACT sensor. I'm hoping it's something that simple in my case. ------------------ Russ L '91 LX Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

10-03-2001, 01:51 PM	#8
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Does the radiator ever overflow? Try a new cap first. Buy a Stant (I know their t-stats suck, but their lever rad caps are good) 16 pound lever pressure release radiator cap (with the red release valve). Try that first. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

10-03-2001, 11:54 PM	#9
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Hey Chris, I'm using a Stant 18 lb. cap. The radiator only overflows after extended driving in the superhot range.

10-04-2001, 10:22 AM	#10
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Well, if the cap is still holding 18 pounds, that means the coolant isn't dissapating any heat in the radiator. I still believe it's because it doesn't stay there long enough. If you still have the fan shroud, you might want to eliminate the fan clutch. You shouldn't have to, but doing so would help cool it. How long after starting, during regular driving, does it get hot? Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

10-04-2001, 10:30 AM	#11
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	I agree with Chris. I don't think the coolant is staying in the radiator long enough - it just keeps cycling and getting hotter and hotter. Try a 180* and maybe even spend the $45 on a nice Autometer mechanical temp gauge. It is unreal how well these gauges work. When the termostat opens, I can watch the needle on the gauge go from 185-190* to 175 or so. Kinda cool. Good luck with the cooling issue and let us know how it turns out. FYI - my stock temp gauge never seemd to move at all! Always dead in the middle of normal. E ------------------ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 38,000 miles 13.17 @ 106.14 mph w/ 2.138 60'

10-04-2001, 11:53 AM	#12
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	Electric fan. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor *332RWHP, 350rwtq*

10-08-2001, 12:25 AM	#13
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Okay, I'm going to try that 180 t-stat and see what happens. Sky, I just ordered me a dual electric fan setup, which will clear the blower pulley. The mechanical temp gauge is a good idea. I just need somewhere to mount it. The dual gauge pod will already be occupied with the boost and fuel press. gauges.