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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Ontario canada
Posts: 446
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![]() Well we have started to finally redo the whole car.
we are going to strip it bare and restore it to better than new . paint was decided for me Baby blue. rebuilding the rearend trans looking for a tubular k member We are still trying to figure out how we want to increase engine RPM. we looked into reducing the the crank to clevland journal size and use spacers but havent had to much luck with machine shops trying to figure how to get this done right. Dad suggested if we go to a dry sump it should help the journals under high RPM use. we are going to solid roller lifters to get rid of the hydralic rolls at this time also. I've looked into dry sumps and saw there used in dirt track (along with all forms or racing)so I thought Chris or some of you could educate me on dry sump systems. I'm a little concerened about the oiling for the turbo's which i have draining into the pan right now. also we will be using only 20% coolant in it this time (LOL)
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89 with 331 t3'/t4 hybrids. upr Suspention worked out finnaly . 9.89 144 mph . |
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#2 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() The only thing that I know about dry sumps is that it is expensive and takes up allot of room.
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: greenwood, ar
Posts: 118
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![]() I'm not posative on this but I don't think dry sump will help much. From what I understand dry sump just has 2 oil pumps one that sucks the oil from the pan to a smaller resevoir that stays full so that the second pump will always be pumping oil and not lose pressure in extreme conditions. such as serious offroading, autocross, and other things that tend to slosh oil around in the oil pan. it can help keep the crankshaft out of the oil which will help your high rpm goal some but I think the dry sump system takes more power to operate also. If your worried about oil starvation I would just get a good pan and pickup. especially if it is mostly a drag car. That's just my view on it.
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'89 GT K&N, Twisted Wedge heads, TFS intake,FMS 1.7 rockers, Trick Flow stage 1 cam(221*/225* .530in\.542in) , 3.73's, headers, off road H-pipe, Flowmasters, FMS Clutch, Tremec, PRO-5.0, FMS driveshaft, fluidyne alum. radiator, and more to come. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Ontario canada
Posts: 446
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![]() what I really want is a new dart block with clevland journal size and to machine my crank down to that size but im trying to find a comprimize. We were looking into using spacers on the upper journal's and getting svo 2 bolt or 4 bolt crank mains (or get some fab depending on cost)but havent had a good responce to doing this from the machine shops.(they ask us the spacer size we need and such and were going to them to get this info ?)
I have a couple seasoned 351 w blocks all 2 bolt . I'm using a girdle with a windage tray and scraper.but it looks like a dry sump would cost about the same as all the good wet stuff but space is at a premium. so I will try a couple of other machine shops .problem is they dont do to much ford stuff here in Calgary.I had one shop recomend a place in Edmonton 3 hours away.
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89 with 331 t3'/t4 hybrids. upr Suspention worked out finnaly . 9.89 144 mph . |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Dry sumps are better all the way around, and they are safer for your engine. But, it takes power to turn them. You ccan have between 2 and 5 pumps, depending on your needs. Space is needed, though.
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