My T-5 Died Today....

[Rick 91GT]

Well I was coming home from checking out a stang for my friend. On the way home I had just shifted into third gear and...bam..clank, clank... after a choice few words %&(@$&($&(@&$ came out of my mouth, I drifted to the nearest side street. It still shifted but won't go anywhere. Put it on the trailer and towed it home, I hope to get it apart to find out whats wrong by next weekend. I planned on taking the motor apart in a couple weeks I guess I'll start early. I rebuilt the tranny 4 years ago and it has taking a lot of beating at the tracks so I guess I really can't complain. I guess I'll be calling D&D to order some more parts. Has anybody bought the T-5 rebuild kit from Hanlon, does it have more then the D&D kits? This made my fiance really happy, if it's not one thing it's another, you married guys no what I'm saying

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

[PeTr0]

I would go tremec

[Unit 5302]

Not to sound argumenitive, but the Tremec 3550, and even the TKO (for the $$)IMHO are piles.

There are way more posts in here per capita about problems related to the Tremec than the T-5. With a Z spec, a T-5 is rated at 330lb/ft. A lot of people run the stock T-5 a ton of miles. I've had 3 T-5's all go nearly 150k with no problems.

Most concerning is the lack of desire to back up their product. I've seen so many posts where a Tremec takes a dump right away and the company doesn't want to back their product up. It makes me sick. I put them in the same category with Saleen aftermarket parts.

[Rick 91GT]

Well I've driven two cars with Tremecs and they both can keep them, I wasn't impressed one bit.

I'm going to take it apart and rebuild it like I did last time, it took a lot of abuse these last 4 years at the track and on the street. I know a lot of guys swap to C-4's but I love top rip through the gears...

Can anybody answer my Hanlon question?

[90dpscoupe]

my t-5 whines, did yours do this before it went south?

[Rick 91GT]

It was whining a little but I know that it was the imput shaft bearing, the T-5 is famous for starving the front bearing by it's design. I would get it apart and get it fixed before anything more goes wrong, it may last week or months, make sure it has fluid. If you can do it your self you can save a lot of money the kits from D&D and Hanlon are around $150.00, if you need the imput shaft I think they are around $150.0 also, don't forget about a steel bearing retainer

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

[Green92LX]

Hey...I just blew mine last weekend, luckily I had another tranny to do the swap with. Anyway, mine was whining like all hell before it $hit. You are right, it was the input shaft bearing...the whole shaft was flexing up and down and I busted mine whacking third gear too!!! If your tranny is whining, it ain't got much time left.. Keep driving it, but I suggest flipping through your local classifieds pretty soon.

------------------
1992 5.0 LX, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,BBK equal length shorties,offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, 93 Cobra Spoiler

Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 205K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps, cut and welded stock shifter...and it runs like a champ.

[5.0 Coupe]

I have a T5 right now that is very noisy in second and third (sounds like a bad bearing). 4th and 5th seems ok, but if I go over 55mph I have a very bad vibration. I don't know if this thing is worth rebuilding or if I should just buy a D&D "Z" T5 model.

------------------
89 (GR40 Griggs)Hatch
89 Coupe
90 Coupe

[Rick 91GT]

If you can rebuild it yourself get a kit from D&D or Hanlon it will save a lot of money The reason you will not hear the nosie in 4th gear is because 4th gear in a t-5 is a direct drive the bearing is under so much pressure it can't whine, but you should hear it in all the other gears.

[90dpscoupe]

Yep, mine is whining in all gears except 4th, you think i should have the rebuild kit handy just in case? and also does it come with an input shaft? from d&d

Oh and does it come with a video?, or some instructions? i am somewhat mechanicaly inclined, dont have a garage, but i have a spare bedroom thnx guys

------------------
90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 97.80
Best 60': 2.0047

next mods: subframes, mac h-pipe

[Rick 91GT]

I would plan the rebuild just to be safe. Hanlon offers a video, none of the kit's come with the imput shaft that is a seperate purchase. I got a schematic from the local Ford dealer it was helpful as well, I didn't have a video.

[90dpscoupe]

thnx, sorry bout all the q's, but what do you think i need, the rebuild? or the input shaft, and retainer?, i cant afford all of it. it shifts good, so i think i need the input.

------------------
90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 97.80
Best 60': 2.0047

next mods: subframes, mac h-pipe

[Z28EATR]

I just rebuilt my t-5 after i bit off 5 teeth off the 3rd gear cog, its funny because like rick 91 gt, i was up shifting to third. But i was lucky I only had to replace the 3rd gear cog and the cluster gear, but i went ahead and bought new bearings and a steel bearing retainer, my syncs were fine. It wasnt a fun job but i got my car back on the road for only $390. Not to bad considering what i would have paid some schmuck to do it.

my two cents

[Rick 91GT]

90dpscoupe- the rebuild kit has new syncros and some bearings and all th enew little parts that go in the tranny. You will need that plus the bearing retainer. If your imput shaft is not damaged you will just need the new head bearing.

Z28EATR-Where did you buy your parts from? $390.00 for all of that seems cheap. I was planning on buying the rebuild kit from D&D $149.00 and I have a feeling I will need a imput shaft? Does anyone know how much a imput shaft is going for these days, I think I paid $200+ last time?

Rick

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

[Z28EATR]

RICK91GT- As the others i bought my stuff from D&D performance, i go through a guy named Don Walsh, he dosnt give me a discount but the prices are fair, the number is (248)926-6220. Good luck my friend, holler if you have any more questions.

Everyone- How many miles should i put on this rebuild before i can take it to the track or start rippin on it again??

[showtire]

I may be on another planet based on the text I have been reading, but here goes for what its worth: I have a 66 Ford Galaxie 500 XL Convert. She is stock with the 390, but has the Edlebrock4-bar & manifold. The original tranny was a slush box C-3. I had it replaced with a C-6 from a pick-up truck and yes it was hard to find. My mechanic is a racer and mustang lover and found the C-6 for me and actually wanted to keep it himself after he found it. POINT: He said I could rev my 66 to blow point, drop her in low and would twist the drive shaft off or blow the eng before, I hurt that C-6. That was about 10 years ago and she still purs. Thing is, she is an auto and I have never raced her, but my mechanic said it would be the same on the track for a manual?

[Unit 5302]

Originally Posted by showtire

I may be on another planet based on the text I have been reading, but here goes for what its worth: I have a 66 Ford Galaxie 500 XL Convert. She is stock with the 390, but has the Edlebrock4-bar & manifold. The original tranny was a slush box C-3. I had it replaced with a C-6 from a pick-up truck and yes it was hard to find. My mechanic is a racer and mustang lover and found the C-6 for me and actually wanted to keep it himself after he found it. POINT: He said I could rev my 66 to blow point, drop her in low and would twist the drive shaft off or blow the eng before, I hurt that C-6. That was about 10 years ago and she still purs. Thing is, she is an auto and I have never raced her, but my mechanic said it would be the same on the track for a manual?

Your mechanic is very unlikely to be correct. I don't have all the specifications on your particular C-6 (gear ratios, etc), but a properly driven manual transmission is almost always quicker than an automatic for mildly to moderately modified cars. The manual usually has 1-2 extra gears allowing for closer ratios to keep engine in it's peak powerband, a lower first gear to get a better hole shot, and they use significantly less horsepower than automatics as a general rule.

Obviously, the automatic has the advantage when it comes to consistency and ease of launch. It also has torque mutiplication, and torque converter options that allow for a higher stall speed which allows the engine to rev into it's lower powerband with the torque multiplication being applied.

Highly modified cars on the track are often seen with automatics for consistency (especially in bracket racing), and improved durability.

The C-6 transmission is very strong, but very large and inefficient too. A built C-4 can take highly modified small blocks putting out over 500hp without a problem. Since you're running an FE block, I don't know if you would have had many options to even use the C-4 had you wanted to.

[showtire]

Thank you for bringing me back to planet earth. I think it was very kind, the way you corrected my planetary flight path instead of shoving it down my throat, that in itself speaks highly of you as a person. Should I have transmission problems in the future, I'm going to try and track you down.

Thanks for squareing me away.

Originally Posted by Unit 5302

Your mechanic is very unlikely to be correct. I don't have all the specifications on your particular C-6 (gear ratios, etc), but a properly driven manual transmission is almost always quicker than an automatic for mildly to moderately modified cars. The manual usually has 1-2 extra gears allowing for closer ratios to keep engine in it's peak powerband, a lower first gear to get a better hole shot, and they use significantly less horsepower than automatics as a general rule.

Obviously, the automatic has the advantage when it comes to consistency and ease of launch. It also has torque mutiplication, and torque converter options that allow for a higher stall speed which allows the engine to rev into it's lower powerband with the torque multiplication being applied.

Highly modified cars on the track are often seen with automatics for consistency (especially in bracket racing), and improved durability.

The C-6 transmission is very strong, but very large and inefficient too. A built C-4 can take highly modified small blocks putting out over 500hp without a problem. Since you're running an FE block, I don't know if you would have had many options to even use the C-4 had you wanted to.

[Unit 5302]

Originally Posted by showtire

Thank you for bringing me back to planet earth. I think it was very kind, the way you corrected my planetary flight path instead of shoving it down my throat, that in itself speaks highly of you as a person. Should I have transmission problems in the future, I'm going to try and track you down.

Thanks for squareing me away.

You see that old timers????? Unit 5302 is "very kind" hahaha. Oh man, I must be getting older or something. I should get Dan to make this a sticky.

[Rick 91GT]

That's where I bought my parts last time real nice guys, I'll probably order from them again. I would say take it easy for 100 miles then let it go, it really shouldn't matter though, I don't think those bearings have to break in. Mine took 90,000 miles and a lot of beatings and powershifting at the track so I guess I did a good job building it the last time I like my T-5

Rick