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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Selma, AL.
Posts: 1
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![]() Hello, I am new here and now own my first Mustang GT. I just got it this past Friday. It has a 5 speed tranny. Suggestions on some performance first mods that will help it. Thanks in advance
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kevin test |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Mountaintop, PA
Posts: 634
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![]() Welcome to the club!!!
Do you care about the warrenty? If you do, then you may want to limit your mods. The warrenty thing is a big problem for some people. Something as simple as anexhaust can void a power train warrenty. How seriuous do you want to get? If you are looking for some great, big bang for the buck mods, my favorites are: 1 - After-Market shifter like a Steeda Tri-Ax ($170). The stock shifter sucks. Do this one right away. You will be impressed. Not a warrenty problem either. 2 - Get rid of the stock rims if you can unless you got nice chrome ones with the car when new. I think rims are a great mod. All show and no go, but still one of my favorite mods (not a warrenty problem unless you get crazy) 3 - Catback exhaust! Lots to choose from. Gain a few hp (just a couple), but a nice sound for under $400. 4 - New gears. My choice 4.10's. Cost about $500 - $600 installed. Will not add hp, but will make the car more fun to drive and quicker. 5 - Replace the under drive pullies. About $200 - $250 installed. This will add 10 hp to the rear wheels by slowing down your acessories. 6 - Add a plenum and a larger throttle body. Total cost around $400. Your car will pull much better at higher RPMs. You will see 8 - 10 hp gain. Nice mod. Total cost about $400 and you can install in about an hour if you are not afraid of tools. 7 - Cold air intake! About $60 - $200 depending on which one you go with. 8 - Performance Chip? I have one, but don't bother unless you do a custom tune. That's my input. As far as actual brands to use, we can talk all day about that. There are lots of opinions on that subject, but ask away and be sure to read old threads.
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Warrington, PA
Posts: 694
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![]() Ford is out of line right now concerning the voiding of warranty's. So if you want to keep your warranty, you have to mod accordingly.
Going along with Blake, I'd say first get an aftermarket shifter. If you have to take your car in for warranty work, and shifter is something that can be swapped back to stock very easily. You are also pretty safe to do exhaust mods. Gears are the best bang for the buck, but thats probably going to get your warranty voided. Heck, Ford has voided several SVT Lightning warranty's because the "correct" weight oil was not run. I don't know about you, but I would not run the suggested 5W20 in that motor either. K&N's are even off limits now because dumbasses have been over oiling them, which in turn gets oil on the filament of the MAF, which can mess up the reading and lean out the motor blowing it. But you don't need a K&N anyway. The paper cone filter (when clean) flows plenty of air. So before we get too far into this: Do you care about your warranty?
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'97 T-bird LX 4.6L 2V, auto SVO heads/intake, Vortech T-trim, front mounted intercooler, blower cams, Cobra crank, Manley H-beam rods, JE pistons, Aeromotive fuel system w/ 42# injectors, and much more No times yet |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: racine ,wi
Posts: 691
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![]() heres my list
1st shifter (pro5.0 or steeda tri ax) 2nd gears (frpp 4.10s) 3rd catted x pipe 4th pullies and timing adj 5th c&l plenum and t/b
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RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________ |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Rockford
Posts: 596
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![]() If your worried about the warranty, then put parts on that you can take off and put back to stock. I would also go back to the dealer and ask for the service manager or director. Ask him/her what they feel comfortable on the car that would not void warrenty. Most of the time it's a judgement call on they're behalf! So be cool with them and they will most likley tell you what you can and can't do with in reason. You will be SURPRISED at how much more lenient they can be towards you later!
![]() Hopefully he won't be a dick! Good Luck |
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#6 |
Mustang Addict
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,294
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![]() The law says that in order for them not to honor your warranty they must prove that your modifications caused the failure. I'm not saying that they won't hassle you or they won't try to tell you that they won't fix things under warranty, but you do have some legal recourse. The burden of proof is on them, but when it comes to that I think it is alot like insurance companies that tell people the first time they file a claim that they won't honor it even if they should because alot of people just give up at that point.
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Strike down the unroadworthy! 2000 GT Atl. Blue: '03 Cobra motor - 465rwhp/473rwtq, T-56 6-speed, full MM TA/PH & tubular K-member suspension, Saleen body, 17" Torq-Thrust II's, M/T ET Street radials, and lots more '94 Rio Red Cobra: All the bolt-ons, 3.73s |
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#7 | |
The Redneck James Bond
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Fayetteville NC
Posts: 1,707
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![]() Quote:
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64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. Red Baron, 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. Stage 2 CNC heads with Large Valves, Comp Cams (270-274 dur .550 lift), Forged Crank, DRP pistons, Manly H-beams, Pro M 87 mm Mass Air, 24lb Inj, 75mm TB, Plenum Spacer ,Long Tube Headers, Homemade H-pipe, 2 chamber Flows, 4:10's, Steeda Tri-Ax, LKW 70/30's, Eibach Drag Springs, Steeda SubFrames, Battle Boxes, Rear Girdle, Adj uppers, Alunimum Drshft, Southside Lift Bars. Project Cars, 64 1/2 6cyl coupe, 1930 Model A Nostalgia Rod. |
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#8 | |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() Quote:
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Mountaintop, PA
Posts: 634
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![]() Guys, I am thinking about a cam. Any recomendations? I want the old muscle car sound. Here are some ?'s:
1 - What would be a good choice for my car? 2 - What are the risks? 3 - Cost for the cam? 4 - Cost to install? 5 - Other considerations? 6 - Typical power increase? Thanks!
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
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#10 |
2 Stangs in the Stable
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 1,209
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![]() Check out this thread on Modular Depot. VT stage 2 cams on a 00 GT.
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'90 GT Under construction Best E.T. = Fast @ High Speeds - OK So I Lie. So What!!! ![]() ![]() 04 F-150 STX 4.2L 5 spd Rice Haters Club Member #128 |
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