help

[stangtafied]

I have a 96 GT. I have a 2400 stall converter. A steeda ahift kit, a chip in it, 373 gears, 70mm throttle body, k&n filter, no cat h-pipe. why won't the darn thing run under 15.o? HELP!!!!!

How are you launching? Many people incorrectly load up automatics by holding the throttle down against the brakes while at the line. If you are doing this try leaving the throttle at idle until the green instead. When you are ready just floor it hard. This will allow the engine to accelerate rapidly through the stall speed rather than from the stall speed. This way you can use the momentum of the engine's acceleration to move the car. It can be compared to hitting a nail with a hammer rather than just pushing on it with the same tool.
Hope it helps! Good Luck

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67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W 415 hp, Trick Flow Alum. Heads, C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

[stangtafied]

I've tried that too! Everyrun just seems to be exactly the same. Would drag radials give me a better ET? How about some more bolt ons? Nitrous?

Drag radials would probably do it. (If you are having a traction problem now). I know my car always runs faster when it is cold (about 140-160 water temp) Some guys put a bag of ice on the upper intake between runs. A ram air would probably make the difference.
Have you tried bumping the timing up a little?

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67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W 415 hp, Trick Flow Alum. Heads, C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

[mustang17]

Yes, more bolt ons and nitrous would help! Why not start with heads and intake? For small money headers and pullies may be nice.

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1995 GT Black sleeper
Edelbrock aluminum heads,Edelbrock aluminum intake,Edelbrock cam, 70mm TB,75mm pro-m mass air,Taylor wires, Underdrive pulleys,Equal length headers,K&N filter
Flowmaster cat-back, Eibach pro rate springs
lower control arms
3.73 rear gear New: Centerforce clutch,plan to remove a/c

[stangtafied]

I forgot to include that I have pulleys already. Will headers make that big a difference? I've tried the bag of ice trick, and still nothing. I've seen the kit from steeda and thought about it. I was reading that you can do something with a resistor. How does that work?

[97snakedriver]

What were your 60 ft times and mph?

Look under the "free mods" topic for some other free or cheap mods you can do.

[stangtafied]

my 60ft times were 2.176 with a .706 light

Questions:
1. What MPH did you run?
2. Does your car give you a check engine light? (no cat h-pipe)
3. What kind of weather did you run in?
4. Does the transmission shift sloppy or hard?

Judging from your 60 fts. you could use some drag radials. I assume your car is a daily driver, so I wouldn't go with a higher stall.

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1997 GT Flowmasters,K&N,3.27 gears
RedSOHC

[stangtafied]

my MPH was 92.68 and yes I get the check engine light. I was told it was becuase of the H-pipe. does this rob the car of performance? I put the stock cat pipe back on and the check engine light came bacck on a few days later. Does this mean the cats are bad because it sat all summer? Maybe my o2 sensor is bad. the run was made in 62 degree weather. should I take the screen out of my MAF? Does that help alot?

You just need to pick up some MIL eliminators for the H-pipe to take care of the Check Engine Light. There was a post on this not too long ago; check it out to get the MIL eliminators.

The check engine light is definitely hurting your performance. Your 1/4 MPH should be higher than it is (especially in 60 degree weather). My car ran 72 MPH in the 1/8 (around 92 MPH in 1/4) with just flowmasters and K&N and 90+ temps.

Start with the eliminators before anything else, then go to the track to see the results. Lets us know how it turns out.

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1997 GT Flowmasters,K&N,3.27 gears
RedSOHC