change rear end fluid?

GhettoPop · 02-06-2005, 03:57 AM

should i change my (i believe original!) rear end fluid? if so how do i do this? i believe i should use like 80w and some friction modifer?

chatcher · 02-06-2005, 09:03 PM

you probably should it wouldnt hurt its not so bad take the rear cover off start at the bottom work you way up and itll drain out easy clean it off and use silicone at least or the gasket can be had pretty cheap at most part stores the fill plug is on the driver side its one of those 3/8 ratchet end type of plugs and check your rear end if its limited slip youll need the additive for it if you have the cash laying around an aftermarket alluminum diff cover with the fill and drain plugs in it will make refill easier its a bit of a bitch getting the fluid in the oe fill plug

82 GT · 02-06-2005, 10:42 PM

Actually, there is a drain plug on the rear(driver side) but it's most likely rusted shut by now.
Spray it good with PB blaster and let it soak overnight and it should come out then.

GhettoPop · 02-09-2005, 09:30 AM

looks like i'll give it a change, was just worried that it might do more harm than good, didnt want to disturb that gunky old fluid

Dog5ohfun · 02-11-2005, 02:12 AM

Good luck with the fluid change. You shouldn't have a drain plug on your diff cover. Just loosen the four bolts around the bottom and work your way to the top of the cover. Don't remove the bolts, loosen them enough to pop the cover away from the housing and drain the fluid. The easiest way to fill it is to get a fluid pump from the local parts store and remove the fill plug on the front of the carrier, if your car has a lot of rust on it use the PB Blaster on all of the bolts and fill plug first, especially the fill plug. If it has never been removed it is a pain in the butt. Also they should have the friction modifier for the limited slip. For fluid use 75w-90 gear lube. I prefer to use Amsoil synthetic. Some parts stores carry it or a specialty performance shop in your area will carry it. Have fun enjoy the smell

Shopping list
Gear lube
Friction modifier
PB Blaster
Fluid pump
rags (one to cover your nose) lol

chatcher · 02-12-2005, 01:56 PM

i forgot to warn him about the smell and if you have a drain plug on your diff cover 82 its prob an aftermarket diff cover which if you can swing for gp it will make the refill process easier and they look cool too

82 GT · 02-12-2005, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chatcher

i forgot to warn him about the smell and if you have a drain plug on your diff cover 82 its prob an aftermarket diff cover which if you can swing for gp it will make the refill process easier and they look cool too

No, I meant the drain plug that's on the side of the differential.
Sorry for the confusion. The aftermarket cover plug is a good idea though.

~The Jester~ · 02-12-2005, 05:11 PM

DO NOT get that friction modifier on your hands! You have NEVER smelled anything that bad before! I always put a little oil from the first bottle into the rear end, then dump the modifier into the rest of the first bottle. That little friction modifier bottle is tough to dump right into the rear, and ya end up spilling it and it smells like a livestock truck crashed into a fish processing plant next to a paper mill. BAD stinky.

GhettoPop · 02-13-2005, 03:01 AM

so loosen the diff caover bolts but dont take them off, do i need to appy can i bolt it back up, reusing the original gasket? what type of sealant, if any, is necessary? and i assume fill till it come out of the full plug.

chatcher · 02-12-2005, 02:04 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...953194099&rd=1

Rev · 02-13-2005, 06:24 PM

The differential shop that I've used in the past recommends no gasket at all. Just black RTV around the flange and studs.

Also, Auburn Gear recommends against using synthetic oil with their limited slip units. They think the extra "slipperyness" of the synthetic oil with the friction modifier will make the unit slip too much and hence wear it out prematurely or maybe chatter around corners. I didn't want to void their warranty on my Auburn Pro unit, so I did use regular 75-90 wt. gear oil.

Rev

02-06-2005, 03:57 AM	#1
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	change rear end fluid? should i change my (i believe original!) rear end fluid? if so how do i do this? i believe i should use like 80w and some friction modifer? __________________ 1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong!

02-06-2005, 09:03 PM	#2
chatcher Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: butler pa Posts: 303	Re: change rear end fluid? you probably should it wouldnt hurt its not so bad take the rear cover off start at the bottom work you way up and itll drain out easy clean it off and use silicone at least or the gasket can be had pretty cheap at most part stores the fill plug is on the driver side its one of those 3/8 ratchet end type of plugs and check your rear end if its limited slip youll need the additive for it if you have the cash laying around an aftermarket alluminum diff cover with the fill and drain plugs in it will make refill easier its a bit of a bitch getting the fluid in the oe fill plug __________________ 92lx wannabe saleen

02-06-2005, 10:42 PM	#3
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Re: change rear end fluid? Actually, there is a drain plug on the rear(driver side) but it's most likely rusted shut by now. Spray it good with PB blaster and let it soak overnight and it should come out then. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

02-09-2005, 09:30 AM	#4
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	Re: change rear end fluid? looks like i'll give it a change, was just worried that it might do more harm than good, didnt want to disturb that gunky old fluid __________________ 1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong!

02-11-2005, 02:12 AM	#5
Dog5ohfun Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Arlington, Washington Posts: 92	Re: change rear end fluid? Good luck with the fluid change. You shouldn't have a drain plug on your diff cover. Just loosen the four bolts around the bottom and work your way to the top of the cover. Don't remove the bolts, loosen them enough to pop the cover away from the housing and drain the fluid. The easiest way to fill it is to get a fluid pump from the local parts store and remove the fill plug on the front of the carrier, if your car has a lot of rust on it use the PB Blaster on all of the bolts and fill plug first, especially the fill plug. If it has never been removed it is a pain in the butt. Also they should have the friction modifier for the limited slip. For fluid use 75w-90 gear lube. I prefer to use Amsoil synthetic. Some parts stores carry it or a specialty performance shop in your area will carry it. Have fun enjoy the smell Shopping list Gear lube Friction modifier PB Blaster Fluid pump rags (one to cover your nose) lol __________________ Black 1990 LX DSS Racing Super Pro Bullit 331, AFR 185, Anderson B31 Cam, 1.6 DSS rockers, Cobra Intake w/ 2 phenolic spacer, Aluminum DS, 3.73 gears, Tremec 3550, Lakewood SFI Bellhousing, MSD Digital 6+, Spintech Side Exhaust, Last edited by Dog5ohfun; 02-11-2005 at 02:31 AM..

02-12-2005, 01:56 PM	#6
chatcher Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: butler pa Posts: 303	Re: change rear end fluid? i forgot to warn him about the smell and if you have a drain plug on your diff cover 82 its prob an aftermarket diff cover which if you can swing for gp it will make the refill process easier and they look cool too __________________ 92lx wannabe saleen

02-12-2005, 05:11 PM	#8
~The Jester~ Rat Killer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cold ass Ohio Posts: 1,143	Re: change rear end fluid? DO NOT get that friction modifier on your hands! You have NEVER smelled anything that bad before! I always put a little oil from the first bottle into the rear end, then dump the modifier into the rest of the first bottle. That little friction modifier bottle is tough to dump right into the rear, and ya end up spilling it and it smells like a livestock truck crashed into a fish processing plant next to a paper mill. BAD stinky. __________________ d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....

02-13-2005, 03:01 AM	#9
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	Re: change rear end fluid? so loosen the diff caover bolts but dont take them off, do i need to appy can i bolt it back up, reusing the original gasket? what type of sealant, if any, is necessary? and i assume fill till it come out of the full plug. __________________ 1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong!

02-12-2005, 02:04 PM	#10
chatcher Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: butler pa Posts: 303	Re: change rear end fluid? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...953194099&rd=1 __________________ 92lx wannabe saleen

02-13-2005, 06:24 PM	#11
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Re: change rear end fluid? The differential shop that I've used in the past recommends no gasket at all. Just black RTV around the flange and studs. Also, Auburn Gear recommends against using synthetic oil with their limited slip units. They think the extra "slipperyness" of the synthetic oil with the friction modifier will make the unit slip too much and hence wear it out prematurely or maybe chatter around corners. I didn't want to void their warranty on my Auburn Pro unit, so I did use regular 75-90 wt. gear oil. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe Last edited by Rev; 02-13-2005 at 06:42 PM..

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