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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2002 
				Location: Jacksonville, FL 
				
				
					Posts: 706
				 
				
				
				
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			 I am fouling number 5 plug almost instantly. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I have r/r the heads. Replaced valve seals twice. The guides are good. All other cylinders/plugs are perfect. I did a comp check and I thought it was fine. No discernable difference in PSI in any of the cylinders and all were within 10 percent, dry and wet. I am totally frustrated. I am travelling with the car but can do some maintenance. Anybody have any tricks to isolate this? I go through a quart of oil in a week. The plug fouls right away. With that much oil, I'd think the psi would be crap with bad rings but it seems good. Thanks in advance. 
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	1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy  | 
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		#2 | 
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			 Rat Killer 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				Location: Cold ass Ohio 
				
				
					Posts: 1,143
				 
				
				
				
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			 Well to start narrowing it down, I would switch the heads.  ie: take them off the engine, and swap banks with them.  Then if you start fouling #4 instead you KNOW your problem is in the head.  If the problem is still #5, then it has to be rings. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			When you R/R the heads last time, did you put them on the same side? Were they marked at all so you knew which was which? How did that cylinder wall look when you had the heads off? I'm gonna bet you have a BROKEN piston ring, not necessarily a worn ring. 
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	d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....  
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		#3 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2002 
				Location: Jacksonville, FL 
				
				
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			 When I had the heads off, the cylinder walls looked fine, so I didn't mic them.  
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I was convinced that it had to be in the heads at the time. Now, I'm not so sure. So, even with a broken ring, a cylinder would pass a comp check? Thanks for the tip. 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy  | 
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		#4 | 
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			 Rat Killer 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				Location: Cold ass Ohio 
				
				
					Posts: 1,143
				 
				
				
				
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			 Sure will!  Keep in mind that ALL the rings have a gap at the ends, and they hold compression.  Problem with a broken one is it can no longer contain a liquid, ie oil.  After the oil gets past the "complex" oil ring, it just runs around the piston until it finds the gap in the next ring, and up it goes. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Either that, or the gaps on the rings lined themselves up. I've seen that ONCE in all my years, so that's doubtful. With this volume of oil loss, I'd be looking at the head gaskets, or the block. Make sure the block/gasket/heads look good around the oil return holes (Hole towards the exhaust side of the block) too. Kepp plugging away, we'll find it sooner or later. 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....  
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		#5 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				Location: Rochester 
				
				
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			 I bet a bad ring as well... any oil in the coolant? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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		#6 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Sep 2002 
				Location: Boston 
				
				
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			 Just a tip from someone who used to go through a quart of oil in a week too: 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Are you using synthetic 10w-30? I shot a quart of that out my tailpipes about every week. I switched to cheap goop $1 a quart 10w-30 regular oil and viola! I burn 1/2 a quart every 2 months. Thin oil will find every possible means to escape your engine. Try using regular thick oil and see what happens. Might be cheaper and easier than rebuilding things. 
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	91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior  | 
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		#7 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2002 
				Location: Jacksonville, FL 
				
				
					Posts: 706
				 
				
				
				
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			 I also replaced the dipstick when I put the rebuilt motor in. What are the odds that I installed the wrong one? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			It's only 23 1/4" long from the lower tip to flush with the tube. Part number E7SE-6750-BA. I know it's a longshot, but I want to be sure. Thanks. 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy  | 
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