Sick dyno number (220)rwhp

[dennis kelley]

hey Guys,

Give me your thoughts, AFR 165, Crane2030, BG 650 dp,rpm air gap style manifold, and total timing was very low 24 or26 total. I put a new bushing in the dist and I'm going to set the timing for 38 total. Give me you estimate. Dyno Jet chassis dyno and the motor is in a Cobra kit car. I can't get the dyno graph to post but it doesn't gain any power above 4000 rpm. The Air fuel was steady at 13 to 1. I think I just posted the lowest AFR horsepower numbers in history of the company. I need some help guys please. I go back to the dyno friday if I don't have to work.

[Hethj7]

Sorry I am not too familar with the specs on the 165's or the crane 2030, but do you think there is enough lift in that cam? The reason I ask is because I had similar numbers as you but then installed a set of 1.7 rr's and saw like a 20-30 hp increase (can't remember the exact number as it was like 5 years ago). My combo then was the Ford GT-40 iron heads and the B-cam. I don't know if this is much help, but I'd thought I throw it out there.

[dennis kelley]

The Crane 2030 has .533 lift intake and 544 exhaust I thought that was enough, but hell I don't know

[~The Jester~]

I'm gonna say it's the RPM manifold too. Dual plane intakes build power down low. That, combined with a mis-matched cam will surely flatten out that HP curve! Give us some more specs on that Crane. ie Duration, overlap. Know anyone with a Victor Jr you can borrow???

[Rev]

More timing will help. I still think there's something else that's not right though. The 220 means about 265 at the crak probably. You should be producing peak power at 5500 or so I would bet.

Rev

[dennis kelley]

I don't have my cam card but I think 216 duration intake 218 exhaust thats about all I can remember

[tmoss]

Most guys make best power with total timing between 32-34 degrees total timing. If your timing was 24-26 that killed a significant amount of power.

[~The Jester~]

Yeah, what TMoss said. Make sure you have it all coming in by about 3,000 to 3,500 RPM too.

[andy669]

You definately need more timing. Why did you have it so low? What trans is in the car? If its an auto with a stall convertor, that can give you low HP readings on a dynojet. I had a goofy thing happen with my car once. I lost 15 degrees of timing and lost 100 RWHP at the same time. I put the 15 degrees back in it, and the power came back. I dont think the intake is the problem. I run my unported air gap to 8000.

Andy

[Jeff Chambers]

Could also be that the cam is installed wrong. I once had my cam & timing gears installed one tooth off, basically advanced about 18 degrees. The car idled and cruised good below 2500rpm, but anything above that and it fell on its face. That taught me to ALWAYS verify timing events when installing a cam using a good degreeing wheel.

[dennis kelley]

Hey guy thanks for all the input I'll let you know when I get new dyno appoint. The car is a TRemec 3550 tran. I think its just a timing problem but if it isn't I'll degree the cam and find out.
Thanks again
Dennis

[bmxmon]

Hey, how do you figure out total timing?? I know when i had to time my 6cly it needed like 6 degrees on the balancer. Is there some other place where timing is adjusted?? (i would guess the cam timing chain, but how do you figure that out?)

[~The Jester~]

BMX, it's in your distributor. You're setting BASE timing at 6 degrees. The ditzy has a mechanical advance (weights and springs) and I'd bet money that yours has a vacuum advance as well. Those both add to the total timing. To measure/set total timing, ya need a new timing light with an advance wheel on it.

[Rev]

I just use a regular timing light and degree tape on the balancer. I try to get 38 degrees all in by 3000 rpm, and let the initial advance fall where it may (about 13). My distributor is a Mallory Unilite (not recommended) with mechanical advance only (adjustable). The whole process is really easy.

Rev

[Coupe50h]

Originally Posted by Hethj7

The reason I ask is because I had similar numbers as you but then installed a set of 1.7 rr's and saw like a 20-30 hp increase (can't remember the exact number as it was like 5 years ago). My combo then was the Ford GT-40 iron heads and the B-cam. I don't know if this is much help, but I'd thought I throw it out there.

Thats because the b-cam is designed for 1.7's, you probaly want 1.6's on the crane.

[Coupe50h]

Also is this a 302? stroker?

[dennis kelley]

Its a 302. I advanced the timing and took the car for a drive and it feels much more powerful from 3000 rpms on. I'll post the new dyno numbers this week but I feel confident that I just had the timing way to low. I'll let you know guys thanks.

Dennis

[dennis kelley]

Hey Guys

Just got back from the Dyno. New numbers are 273.65 max hp and 298.67 torque. All gains are because of the timing. I still think there is some more left in it but I'm happy for now. Thanks for all the responses.

Later
Dennis

[lx mike]

Wow that thing realy woke up!! what did you end up setting it at? did you try playing with it any on the dyno?

[dennis kelley]

I can't really tell but it looked like 32 degrees total. I feel the motor has more in it.
I changed the timing in two degrees increments. It went like this
November 8th pull was 222hp and 265tq
Today 11-26-04
Pull one: 245hp 262 tq
Pull two: 267.05 tq 287 backed timing up 6 degrees
Pull three: 274.47 hp 295tq +two degree from previous setting
Pull four: 273 hp 298tq + two degrees from previous setting.

I stopped after this run because I was cutting into another guys time but overall I'm happy. Air fuel was 14 to 1. I think that if I jet up to 70/80 from 68/76 and play with the timing I'll bring the power up. I'm sure that I initially had the timing way to low then way to high. I now believe timing is everything. Don't laugh but my eyes are to bad to read those little marks.