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Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
Chris,
She is beautiful!! Awesome job bro!!
I've been trying to find a fuel leak for a while (since before I started this thread) now but can't locate any liquid. Last time, when my AN fitttings were leaking it was easy to tell. Injectors aren't leaking either. Steel braided line is brown in some spots but no fuel leaking. What about the possibility that my fuel line being so close to the tailpipes is boiling the fuel? What are the chances that this is happening?
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let me clarify what I meant; You don't have an external leak, but rather an internal leak. Fuel injection has to have pressure to work, and when you shut off the pump, there is supposed to still be pressure in the lines so that it will start right away. If you have an injector that's become stuck open, it will slowly leak the fuel into that cylinder, dropping the pressure. Or, if the regulator is bad, it will allow the fuel to drain back to the tank, reducing the pressure. Another common problem is the pump itself, or the hose in the tank becoming cracked, allowing the built up pressure to fall when it allows the fuel to drain back into the tank. A leak in your fuel system doesn't have to be external to cause problems, just like a bad internal seal in a master cylinder can give you lousy brakes, even though you don't leave puddles of brake fluid everywhere.
Quote:
Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
What damage, if any am I doing to this engine by having difficulty starting cold?? Oil pressure is at 60 lbs when cranking.
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In the short term, not much. Anytime it takes longer for an engine to start, you are incresing the wear and tear, but it's not really significant, yet. Usually, the problem causing the hard starts will completely fail before you do any other damage. Still, you need to fix this problem right away.
Quote:
Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
Regarding oil & Lucas additive, since I have the 7 qt Canton 351 double sump swap pan should I use 6 1/2 qts. of Mobil 1 and 1 qt Lucas??
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Sounds like a good plan to me.
Quote:
Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
Also, I am developing a significant oil leak at what appears to be the back of the oil pan. Seems like the rear (of the 4 piece gasket) is being squished out a bit. Does this mean my engine builder cranked it too tightly and I need to pull this sucker again to replace the .50 gasket?? Ouch!! Is this common amongst the swap pan's??
Thanks and let me know where that beauty is going to end up, she looks sweet!
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Yup. Sounds like it to me. If/when you replace the gasket, you first have to make sure the gasket surface is flat and true, and not bent from over tightening. The best way to do this is with a flashlight and a big piece of glass. Set the glass on a table, turn on the flashlight, and set in on the glass, then set the oil pan over the flashlight, on the glass, and turn out then lights. Anywhere that you can see the flashlight shining from under the pan is a place where the pan is bent, and needs to be straightened.
Thanks for the kind words.
Take care,
~Chris