Stall converter and AFRs

Fox Body · 07-11-2003, 02:58 AM

Just need some quick guidance:

I'm planning on putting some AFRs and a 3-3200 stall converter on the '79.

I was told by AFR that I would most likely have to notch the pistons for enough valve clearance if I wanted to use the 185s. So, what I'm looking at now are the AFR 165 heads. How much of a difference would that make on my car.. any ideas? How much of a diff between using 185s or 165s in terms of 1/4 mile times? I would not have to notch the pistons for the 165s. I don't want to have the pistons removed. If I can approach 12s (13.0-13.3) with the 165s and torque converter, then fine. Best I've run with this car was 13.6 on Nitto drag radials launching at a measly 1500 rpm. Check my sig. Stock heads, and bolt-ons.

I just don't know if I want to go through removing the pistons for notching b/c then I'd just end up rebuilding the bottom end (new rings, bearings, etc) and a new cam and I don't know if I wanna spend that much right now. I'm sure if I did, I'd have a solid high 12-sec car. Depends on price, but I don't really see it happening....

So, what do you guys think about the 165s? And, anyone know of a reputable stall converter (brand) I should be looking at? I want to put one in really soon.

07-11-2003, 02:58 AM	#1
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Stall converter and AFRs Just need some quick guidance: I'm planning on putting some AFRs and a 3-3200 stall converter on the '79. I was told by AFR that I would most likely have to notch the pistons for enough valve clearance if I wanted to use the 185s. So, what I'm looking at now are the AFR 165 heads. How much of a difference would that make on my car.. any ideas? How much of a diff between using 185s or 165s in terms of 1/4 mile times? I would not have to notch the pistons for the 165s. I don't want to have the pistons removed. If I can approach 12s (13.0-13.3) with the 165s and torque converter, then fine. Best I've run with this car was 13.6 on Nitto drag radials launching at a measly 1500 rpm. Check my sig. Stock heads, and bolt-ons. I just don't know if I want to go through removing the pistons for notching b/c then I'd just end up rebuilding the bottom end (new rings, bearings, etc) and a new cam and I don't know if I wanna spend that much right now. I'm sure if I did, I'd have a solid high 12-sec car. Depends on price, but I don't really see it happening.... So, what do you guys think about the 165s? And, anyone know of a reputable stall converter (brand) I should be looking at? I want to put one in really soon. __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body