Rotor Replacement

03-25-2001, 01:11 AM

The problem you'll face with slotted rotors and cross drilled rotors is that they can't be turned at all. If they warp or are scored, they're done unless you tolerate bad brakes, which is what you're trying to avoid. For street use you might as well just get regular rotors with good calipers, brake lines and good fluid (synthetic is even better). You're not going to be heating the brakes up enough to make them fade enough to effect performance with a good system (unless you drive REALLY HARD like an autocrosser). I'd go with solid rotors and save the money to go towards braided brake lines, stronger calipers, and synthetic fluid, etc. Just my $.02, good luck!

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'84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon

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03-25-2001, 01:11 AM	#7
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	The problem you'll face with slotted rotors and cross drilled rotors is that they can't be turned at all. If they warp or are scored, they're done unless you tolerate bad brakes, which is what you're trying to avoid. For street use you might as well just get regular rotors with good calipers, brake lines and good fluid (synthetic is even better). You're not going to be heating the brakes up enough to make them fade enough to effect performance with a good system (unless you drive REALLY HARD like an autocrosser). I'd go with solid rotors and save the money to go towards braided brake lines, stronger calipers, and synthetic fluid, etc. Just my $.02, good luck! ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon