clutch break-in

over 40 five oh driver · 04-02-2001, 11:19 AM

Yes, I own a Centerforce DF, and NO, I do not know better than the manufacturer. Here's my take on it...
#1. That is a fantastic clutch but not real cheap either.
#2. Every clutch is different as to manufacturers process, tolerances, design, etc. Their are many variables engineered into a clutch that you may not be privy to.
#3. Based on the cost and the fact we aren't (most of us) engineers, then the Mfg. recommends not only installation notes, and cautions, but breakin procedures.

You want to risk your hard earned money, down time on the car, and all the time on labor...then yea, go out like the other guy said, and if it feels good, "cross your fingers" and "let it rip".

My recommendation is go with Centerforces recommendations in every regrad. It's only a 500 mile stop and go type break-in for goodness sake. I gave mine 1,000 miles as I was not in stop and go...after that I leaned on it a little in 2nd and 3rd for a few days. Then I let it rip! Failure to follow installation notes could not only void your warranty, but cause you physical harm w/o a scattershield!!! Okay...now you have two opinions thus far. Do what you think is best, and good luck. You'll love the clutch!

------------------
92'GT, Keith Craft Racing 306 (10.25:1 CR), PRO-M 80mm MAF,65MM TB, Edelbrock U/L intake,
TFS-TW heads milled/ported, CompCams XE274HR (.555/.565" lift w/1.6 rockers), A-351 adjustable roller rockers, 30# injectors,
Kirban FPR w/external pump, FRPP ceramic coated headers, Bassani X-pipe w/cats, Bassani cat back, Centerforce DF clutch/T.O. bearing...MSD 6AL w/MSD distributor, Steeda Tri axe, aluminum D/S, 3.73's, w/Factory Five U/L control arms. Lakewood 50/50 shocks. Steeda Front Drag swa

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04-02-2001, 11:19 AM	#3
over 40 five oh driver Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 278	Yes, I own a Centerforce DF, and NO, I do not know better than the manufacturer. Here's my take on it... #1. That is a fantastic clutch but not real cheap either. #2. Every clutch is different as to manufacturers process, tolerances, design, etc. Their are many variables engineered into a clutch that you may not be privy to. #3. Based on the cost and the fact we aren't (most of us) engineers, then the Mfg. recommends not only installation notes, and cautions, but breakin procedures. You want to risk your hard earned money, down time on the car, and all the time on labor...then yea, go out like the other guy said, and if it feels good, "cross your fingers" and "let it rip". My recommendation is go with Centerforces recommendations in every regrad. It's only a 500 mile stop and go type break-in for goodness sake. I gave mine 1,000 miles as I was not in stop and go...after that I leaned on it a little in 2nd and 3rd for a few days. Then I let it rip! Failure to follow installation notes could not only void your warranty, but cause you physical harm w/o a scattershield!!! Okay...now you have two opinions thus far. Do what you think is best, and good luck. You'll love the clutch! ------------------ 92'GT, Keith Craft Racing 306 (10.25:1 CR), PRO-M 80mm MAF,65MM TB, Edelbrock U/L intake, TFS-TW heads milled/ported, CompCams XE274HR (.555/.565" lift w/1.6 rockers), A-351 adjustable roller rockers, 30# injectors, Kirban FPR w/external pump, FRPP ceramic coated headers, Bassani X-pipe w/cats, Bassani cat back, Centerforce DF clutch/T.O. bearing...MSD 6AL w/MSD distributor, Steeda Tri axe, aluminum D/S, 3.73's, w/Factory Five U/L control arms. Lakewood 50/50 shocks. Steeda Front Drag swa